WHY YSL HATED DIOR!! (History of Dior Part 2)
Hello. Everybody my name is Luke Marr and this is hot lamode and today, on hot lamode we are doing a part two to, the history. Of Dior and today we're gonna be covering Eva, Soler Rawls time after. Your Eve's in the role is known for a lot but his, time at Dior, is seldom, talked about and it was something that I just thought was really really necessary, before we get any further into, the video though if you guys do want to watch part one of the history, of do you or I recommend, it just so that you have a little you know basis, for which to base the seefs on their own knowledge on, before, we get any further into, the video I just want to give a huge shout-out to our sponsor for, this video audible, audible, is a leading provider of premium. Digital spoken. Audio information and, entertainment on, the internet and their collection of audio books and other things to listen to is literally, unmatched. 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In theatre costumes, his life in Iran was difficult, as he was bullied intensely, for his feminine, and shy manner but never let on to his parents, and fear of embarrassing, them in his teenage years Eve, entered, some of his sketches in, an international. Design competition where. He placed third, he was invited to Paris to accept his award and, before he departed back to Iran his mother set up a meeting with Michel, de bruja editor-in-chief of French Vogue yeah his family was Heike bougie Michelle thought Eve was brilliant, but believed, she'd study in design school first. Soon after Eve departed, to Paris where he began studying at the highly coveted a coalition. With Syndicate, dilly-o Cuchillo, all while continuing, to send his sketches to Michel a few months went by and, Michelle was astonished, to receive one of Eve's and newest sketches, the sketch was extremely, similar to Christian, Dior's, aline designs from his spring 1955. Collection. Which Michelle, had seen earlier, that morning at a preview, the collection hadn't even been shown to the public so, Eve and, Dior's designs were aligning, without the two ever even having a connection, Michel hurry to foam Christian, himself who then wanted to meet Eve Eve later said do, you agreed to meet me looked. At my designs and offered, me a job Yves started, low on the door totem, pole in 1955. I mean, he was a 19 year old who hadn't even finished university, but starting from the bottom was beneficial, he really got a feel for the company while doing banal tasks. Like decorating, many dior boutiques, and eventually. Even made friends, one being that your model, and later Musa Victoire, betrayal, Oh most of the 1,200 your staff were women and they doted on the quiet nervous, Eve in the same way his mother had which, often, helped to put him at ease Eve while working would often draw a cartoon of a young girl named Lulu who would do all the things like setting houses, on fire and stealing, babies, he passed the sketches to his friends, who then would pass them on to the other employees, and, eventually, Lulu would make her way to Christian, himself it was even said that he would eagerly await each installment Eve had great admiration for mr. Dior and felt it was an honor to work for the most successful, couturier, in the world and both Christian, and Eve were quite timid and superstitious.
Which Eve felt bonded, them together even, more and although the two were similar they, weren't very close, Christian. Was estranged, from not only Eve but, most, of his employees, except, the heads of his ateliers, do your did see Eve's brilliance, though and challenged, him to more difficult tasks, as his time in the company went on Eve, went on to design accessories. For doors many licensees. Which, included, stockings, hats, gloves, handbags. And shoes just, to name a few eventually, was, even submitting, sketches, to Dior for his okhla tour shows, Dior. Over, the seasons began to approve more and more of Eve's looks, with. Do you were one sang 35. Of an a hundred and eighty look collection. Have been sketched by Eve himself, the most famous look Eve designed while Dior was still alive was the dress worn into, vemma with the elephants, shot by Richard Avedon the, beautiful, white gown was partially, eaten by one of the elephants, though that was the first and last euro, cuiture, meal that the world would ever know one of Eve's more interesting, designs under Dior's tutelage, was the chamise it was a dress that didn't define the waist at all and often. Only fell to the knee not only was it an extremely difficult look, that only a few women could pull off successfully but, it also was in direct contrast. With Dior's defining. New look silhouette, for the autumn, 1957. Oh Couture showing, Eve's mother, cien had come from Iran to Paris, to see the show Eve was of an aristocratic, family so, his mother coming to also support her designer son wasn't too much of a stretch Eve, had been showing her around Paris, during her stay but the morning of the show she was brought into doers office, to meet the legend himself this wasn't a common occurrence it was actually quite the extraordinary. One, seeing as how shy, Christian, was as well as it was also always a hassle to, get Christians to show up on the day of his shows due. To his terrible anxiety, lucien. When asked what happened during the meeting remembered, he, made some complimentary. Remarks, and then said eve, is the one who'll succeed, me at the time I didn't really understand, she, continued, Durer was still young sixth, yet most in. Reality, jour was only 52 and, now, expected, his 21, year old protege to bear the weight of so much I'm, 21. Almost, 22 currently. And I can barely edit a YouTube video a week, I couldn't, imagine running the biggest fashion company, in all of France after, the successful, show Dior, took his normal post show trip to Montecatini before, he left he told his good friend and head of advertising Susanne. Liu Lang don't. Worry I'm leaving you with Eve Dior. Died just 10 days into his trip from a heart attack and everyone, in fashion went into panic mode Dior, had single-handedly, brought. Fashion, back to Paris, he, had brought money back into the country's garment industry, and was, the face of his eponymous brand, in, 1957. Many thought what, would fashion become without the man who invented the new look, Marcel Bou saw the New York company's, owner and, initial, investor, wanted. To just close down shop but. Was convinced, otherwise, thankfully. Blue stock would keep doors hand-chosen, heads, of the ateliers, and advertising.
Departments, Which, would keep the business and production, side of the company running smoothly but, the responsibility, to design the collection, and put on the biannual, shows, would, be done by yves on the wrong the day the news of the brand's continuation. Was announced, fashion, enthusiasts. Crowded, the street outside of 30 Avenue, Montaigne, when. Yves stepped, out on the balcony to see his new, once they, cheered and screamed, while, Eve was initially. Nervous, about becoming, head of design for the biggest fashion house in the world he, also became very excited, when deciding on what he was going to create for the first collection Dior, had built his brand on using a stereotypical. Feminine. Silhouette, like an hourglass figure but these clothes while beautiful weren't. Comfortable and, Eve recognized, that from his time of the Dior Atelier, while doing fittings instead, Eve was going to hone in on creating. Softer, less, rigid and more, wearable clothes, for younger could sure clients, who piqued Yves interest, more on January. 30th, 1958. Eve debuted, his first collection which, he called the trapeze, line trapeze, mixed, his love of comfort, with, the rich and luxurious fabrics. That t oher was known for it did away with the notion that fashionable. Garments, had to rely on geometric. Shapes for guidance and padding. And boning, for structure, for the first look that showed up in the salon the crowd roared, with excitement Eve showed swing, coats which were fitted from the torso, but grew bolder and more wild as the coat fell past the knee he created slim skirt suits where the jacket hit the waist and stopped which, highlighted, the waist even further he even created a ball gown titled, lily of the valley which. Was named after dears, favorite flower and followed, a tradition, Dior had created, by naming at least one dress lily-of-the-valley. In each of his collections, Eve was paying tribute, to Dior while developing, his own vision for the brand when. The show had finished editors, were crying and one even cheered that France, had been saved, the press heralded, Eve's on the role as a design prodigy, and a, savior of the House of Dior Yves first collection had made him an international, star during, Christian, Dior's funeral, even, met a young man named Pierre Behr chez Pierre, had been dating a successful, young artist, in Paris at the time but when he and Eve locked eyes they, both knew it was love at first sight from that night on he, was by Eve's side through thick and thin and weeks, later when he saw Eve's collection. Pierre, who had thought fashion, was only for the rich and nothing but a waste of time realize that clothing, when, created by a visionary, could be more in, fool than he originally thought. We'll discuss pierre further in a little while, eve after, his first collection was taken on a world tour, to meet clients, and the, most important, women of high society the, nervous eve was well liked though as a sweet, and shy demeanor was highly enjoyed by people and when going back to Paris to start work on his second collection. He was lovingly given, the name don't Fonda, Dior by, the other do your employees, which pretty much means the, prints of Dior for the autumn 1958.
Collection. Yves planned, on revealing his arc line which, would be a take on his trapeze line the dresses, skirts, and jackets, fit looser, and fell more delicately, and it, appeased, the younger couture clients, as opposed to the middle-aged, to older clients. That, were the most prevalent demographic. Yves also, did something that caused quite a stir with the other kateri is in Paris he showed garments, with hems dropped three inches below the knee it was an unwritten rule that a couturier, should never change the hemline more than two inches of season I really couldn't understand, this rule and couldn't find any info on it so I asked my brilliant, friend Pierre, and Pillay otherwise, known as Pam boy if you're nasty, and considering, he's a brilliant French fashion critic he, obviously knew, hi, Pierre. So. Essentially. We, need your help we want to know why. Was. It such a big deal that one even our own dropped, the hemlines, three, inches, why, did everybody care why were they like freaking out in Paris why was. It. Looks like that was all this is due to. Yoga. And all these guys so. He was very difficult because these guys also were be, narrow-minded. Even, though in their own ways. They have changed, fashion. A notes just so much what. They did was. Still very much, rage. It wouldn't move that was seeking to anesthetic, when Ethan comes, up and says from one season to the next I'm, going to make. Everything a, lot, shorter a. Lot longer like he did for his career it, was a bit of a shock because it was abrupt. And shocking, for you, know they would just leave him because I was just seen you have to realize. That was a very, poor, Schwab rich. Bench. Very. Rich bitch. I. Feel like he's painted, as very timid, and shy but. He really was like breaking. Down the. Barriers. It was like for real for real like. Game-changing. Also. Can you just say as a French person to everybody, watching, this video that my pronunciation, is not that. God-awful, and, then I have a pass you. Notice I just want you to. Yeah. You can say it in French whatever. Thank. You Pierre so much you're such a help we would have been lost without you. Getting. Back on track for, his spring 1959. Collection. Eve wanted, to be a bit less controversial, so, he debuted his long line Eve must have seen the reactions, of his more conservative customers. As well as been feeling the pressure from the business men in charge of Dior so he opted for a collection, that was very Dior, by emphasizing. The waist but, elongating. The torso on, his models, instead of the hourglass, figure it. More champagne, flute, with a tiny waist the press lauded, Eve for the show and this must have encouraged, him as, his fourth collection, autumn, 1959. Was, about to become a whole new, controversy. The collection, was called the, hobble line the name hobble, comes from the hobble skirts made popular by the fashionable, Victorians, around, 1910. The hobble skirt was, aptly named due, to the way its closed him constrained, the strides of those wearing it which caused them to hobble rather, than walk and while the Victorians, had hobble skirts that fell past their ankles, Eve sent, models and hobble skirts that fell well, above, the, knee, click-click-click and you know the press or at least the press that were able to look beyond the societal, values of the 1960s. Were astounded, by the collection they, called it another triumph for Eve but those that could see Eve's vision, were few, and far between. Eve was attacked, by the conservative, press the, older kathshier clients. Who didn't like change and the, businessmen who reported, to Marcel, boo saw and while they all ranted, and raved they, missed that Eve had been speaking directly to a new customer base that could, sure hadn't, seen all that much of the. Youth in reality, 23, year old Eve was more interested, in finding inspiration in. The youth culture that was engulfing, Paris, at the time the, 1960s. Cultural Revolution was, about to hit all of Europe and bust, down the doors of the status quo that had pervaded since World War two and Eve. Like any good designer put, this youthquake on his runway before anyone. Else after, the ruckus that the hobble line caused Eve, once again played it safe to soothe the storm he had created the spring 1960. Collection, titled silhouette. Of tomorrow, was elegant, and restrained, for Eve it looked at the princess silhouette, which had been created by cristóbal, Balenciaga.
But Added more extreme, elements like tight pants, underneath tunic, dresses you can even see a reference to Balenciaga, 's baloon dress that was so popular in the early 1950s. Again, Eve was proving, his range he, could outraged the press and customers, while also lulling, them into a false sense of security and, what a chic false sense of security it, was. Really hit the fan though when Eve debuted, his final collection at the House of Dior the autumn 1960. Collection was titled the BEP collection. The designs followed, the style tribe that was becoming abundant, on the streets of Paris be, derived, from beatniks, a subculture, that was heavily influenced, by Elvis Presley's, rock-and-roll, and James, Dean and Marlon Brando, in movies leather, jackets, and tight blue jeans were, not just an American trend, anymore, they were Viva. Lafawn Singh Eve matched, this new Street culture with the world of Oak couture but showing black cashmere turtlenecks. Think, Audrey, Hepburn wool. Bubble skirts and a crocodile skin jacket with mink trim now. To us this looks sort of old but, to the conservative, women of the oak couture world this, was a travesty, if you think these customers, were just constantly picking on Eve well you'd be wrong because, they had always had sticks up their asses and boycotted. Certain looks Christian Dior himself, had, sent down the runway due to their radical, nature, the beat looks would have easily been worn by the younger women of the time but, it would be more difficult to tailor them to an older customer whose body might not be as in shape as the garments required now, Eve was not only at war with the press who once again mocked his radical designs, and, the, Couture customers, who wouldn't buy for so many reasons but now also Marcel. Bou sock HBIC. Of Dior the Beek collection, made Marcel boo so furious, as Eve was continuing, to affect his sales and nobody. Messed with Marcel, Bou soft and his money you, have to understand. Christian. Dior made, Marcel, blue sock, uber, rich like, Christian, practically. Pissed pennies, so, for somebody to be messing, with his finances, Marcel. Would. Not could. Not should. Not be dealing with it at the same time Eve was bearing the brunt of Marcel's, anger, Algeria. Eve's, home country, was going through a violent, and bloody revolution. Some of the Algerian people no longer wanted to live under French, rule which, was understandable. And the French citizens, of Algeria, were being drafted to fight in the war even, received his draft card but, was safe, to the fact that Marcel, had political ties to the government and deemed Eve too vital to the Dior brand to let him go and fight in a war but, the, conservative, press was beginning to attack, famous, draft dodgers, in their papers it. Also just so happened that Marcel, blue sock owned some, of the French papers that were attacking Yves coincidence. I think not and poor little Yves wasn't, exactly the go to war type but, considering, how Yves had been affecting, the sales of Dior as well, as now receiving public backlash Marcel. Couldn't put off Yves draft papers any longer, so, in August, 1960. Even, listed and he. Was extremely miserable, about it when sent to the French barracks, the memories of his torturous, school days haunted, him and he. Was an outcast and, a famous one at that due, to the fact that he was one of France's biggest celebrities, the. French army was also known to have poor conditions, at this time which was a complete, 180, from the nice life Yves had come to know in Paris even, just 19, days in the army before he had a breakdown which.
Went Public in the papers the, army sent him to a mental institution so. They no longer had to deal with them and the institutions. In the early 1960s, weren't pleasant Yves was pumped full of sedatives every. Single, morning by doctors, and was left with other inmates that roamed freely around his ward wing some days he would be left strapped to a bed or table, and he, recalls the traumatic incidences. Of groping and touching by, the other inmates in reality, no, one at the facility, cared as Yves was seen as nothing but a pompous draft dodger he lost so much weight which, made him look dead due to the fact that he was already light and pretty frail luckily, his knight in shining armor Pierre Bouchet went to the institution. Where he was being held every. Day demanding, that he was released after weeks, of using political threats, to scare the doctors into releasing him they finally let Yves go but Pierre, and friends of Yves said he was never the same, the shy Yves was nothing more now than a lifeless soul it didn't help that Yves had now been publicly replaced, by Marcel, boo sock with. Mark Bowen, the, head of the Dior Atelier, in London even, pierce story continues. And it is a tale filled with trauma and beauty. But that story is for, another day and this is the end of the second part of the history, of Dior please, let me know if you guys enjoyed, this series I want to finish off this, whole series by the end of 2019. Please. Let me know what your favorite collection, was from, yves Eleanor's time at dior and also, i apologize, for any butchering, of the french language that. Went on in this video i also want to give a huge shout out to my friend Pierre, Pam. Boy he is amazing I'm so happy that he was able to come on and help give a little bit of a real French authentic, fashion, vibe to, this video so again I thank you guys for watching I will see you guys on the next video and titi why.