Journey Through Palestine - Travel Documentary
Palestine means a lot of different things to many people, and may not be the most obvious travel destination. It is often associated with conflict and political unrest. However, it is also a beautiful and fascinating region, with a vibrant culture, ancient history, spectacular landscapes, and welcoming people. On this journey I'm traveling through the Holy Land, an area important to the three main monotheistic religions, and today known as Israel and Palestine. In this first episode, I'm exploring the West Bank, the largest and most accessible part of Palestine. From the vibrant streets of Ramallah to the ruins of ancient Jericho.
From religious landmarks in Hebron and Bethlehem, to the narrow alleys of Nablus. Along the way, I meet some of the people that call this land home, and sample some of the local food. This is my first long trip after the pandemic started, and I'm grateful for the chance to travel again. It is also my second visit to the region, and therefore I use both new and older footage for this video. We begin this journey in Bethlehem, a bustling Palestinian town, known to many as the birthplace of Jesus Christ.
It's also an important economic and cultural center in the West Bank. Welcome to Bethlehem in Palestine. I'm walking on Manger Square, which is in the center of the town, and I'm facing the Church of the Nativity, the birthplace of Jesus. It's quite exciting to be here, after a long time not traveling outside Europe. I'm going inside now to have a look.
The church was built in the year 326, but was destroyed, rebuilt, and altered throughout the centuries. Its small entrance, aptly nicknamed as the 'Door of Humility', was added later, and doesn't seem to do justice to its religious importance. Once inside, however, you can sense the holiness and history of the place, From the original supporting columns to the 12th century frescoes, all the way down to the Grotto of the Nativity. Here you find the 14 point star, where Jesus is said to have been born, and also his manger, or crib.
The site is managed by three different denominations within Christianity, who all hold masses here. As the oldest continuously operating church, it now serves pilgrims from around the world, as well as the Christian community in Bethlehem. After soaking up the spiritual atmosphere, it is time to explore the bazaar, to get an idea of daily life in the city, to meet some of its people, and to try some of the local food.
This is called 'Star Street', it's the beginning of a long shopping street, or souk, or bazaar, whatever you want to call it. The streets are getting very narrow, quite atmospheric. Everything under the Palestinian sun is being sold here.
This is in the middle of the souk, in the middle of the bazaar. It seems like it's the end of the week. A lot of people making some last grocery shopping. Bustling! Good morning, welcome in Palestine! All the goods here are fresh, like this. You're welcome here! Bethlehem's economy relies heavily on tourism, and the pandemic has had a huge impact on it.
While many parts of the market are buzzing with activity, there are also some very quiet corners. Needless to say, people working in the souvenir stores and workshops are eagerly waiting for tourists to come back. Hardly affected by the pandemic is another major industry in the region, the olive oil business, which has become a symbol of Palestinian culture. All around Palestine you will see olive trees, in large farms and in the backyards of people's homes.
Some of the trees are hundreds, or even thousands of years old, like this tree, in a village near Bethlehem, which is said to be one of the oldest in the world. I was lucky enough to visit during harvest season, witnessing the entire process, from picking the olives to producing the oil. The floor is very slippery, so be careful! Also going to try this olive oil, freshly pressed. Very good! There are many other places worth your time, in and around Bethlehem, including the Milk Grotto, Shepherd's field with its Byzantine cave, and perhaps my favorite, the Greek Orthodox Mar Saba monastery.
That's quite a view. So the monastery dates from 439CE I believe. It's located in a small canyon in a desert area. Incredible landscape! When in Bethlehem, there is no escaping the other side of the story. This wall was created by Israel 20 years ago as a security measure during the second Intifada.
But has turned into a symbol of resistance, I suppose. The barrier stretches along the West Bank, separating Israel from Palestine, and is one of the most visible signs of a long running conflict, which has seen struggle and tragedy for far too long. Here in Bethlehem, many local and international artists have painted murals and graffiti, voicing their concerns, but also calling for peace. As a traveler, it's both a humbling and interesting experience to walk past the wall, admiring some of the artwork, which can be very creative, while trying to grasp the complexity of the conflict. Going deeply into the politics and modern history of the region, goes beyond this travel channel. But for those who are interested, I recommend to read, watch, and listen to as many different sources as you can.
I'm on the way to Hebron now, which is South of Bethlehem. And I'm here with the driver called Salwa, who is also a guide. She's living in Bethlehem, and it should be a very interesting visit. So Hebron is a major industrial and commercial city. It's the biggest city in the West Bank. There's always a lot of activity here. One of the main products they are selling here is glass and also ceramics.
They're actually quite famous for it. As you can see behind me these guys are hard at work, so let's take a closer look at what they're doing. It's fascinating to watch the glassblowers at work, next to ovens that go up to 1,300 degrees Celcius. With great precision and skill, they produce some of the finest bottles, vases, cups, and even Christmas decoration here. While Hebron is a major commercial center in Palestine, it's also of great religious importance.
We travel further downtown, to visit the Tomb of the Patriarchs, or the Ibrahimi Mosque, which is sacred to both Jews and Muslims. So we're now on the way to the Tomb of the Patriarchs. It's quite a way there, it's a beautiful bazaar, but many stores are closed as you can see.
We're now waiting in front of a checkpoint, to go into the mosque area. Unfortunately, the area around the tomb comes with high security and tension. And provides a good example of the issue of Israeli settlements in the West Bank. There is a clear division between the local Palestinian community, and the 700 or so settlers, who are protected by the Israeli army. Many merchants in the historic bazaar have moved elsewhere, and some streets are almost deserted.
So we made it through the checkpoint, and now we're going into the Mosque of Ibrahim. The building serves as both a mosque and synagogue, and has separate prayer spaces for Muslims and Jews. At the core stands the Tomb of the Patriarchs Abraham, Isaac, Jacob, and their wives. But it's the cave below that both Muslims and Jews believe Abraham chose as a final resting place for himself and his family. As a traveler you can visit both areas, giving you a chance to get up close with worshipers from the two religions.
After exploring Hebron's old city, my guide for the day Salwa had a nice surprise in store. Visiting a traditional Palestinian restaurant. So there is tabouleh, hummus, also some halva (tahini) salad with cucumber and tomatoes. So what are we eating here Salwa? Alright, on my plate I have the 'mansaf'. The mansaf is lamb meat, cooked with yoghurt soup, under a bed of rice. Underneath the rice is a thin bread like this one, which is soaked in the yoghurt soup.
And they put almonds and fried peanuts on top of the dish. Delicious! With a full stomach and a lot of new insights, it was time to travel back to Bethlehem, and onto Jericho the next morning. Good morning, we've just left Bethlehem, on the way to Jericho, the oldest city in the world.
I'm here with Nasser. Hi, good morning everybody. How are you? You have to come here, we will take you around. He's a guide, driver, and also friend that I met 5 years ago. It's great to travel again with him, so on to Jericho! The road from Bethlehem to Jericho leads through some beautiful arid mountain landscape, dotted with small towns and local farms.
It's also mostly going downwards, as Jericho is located next to the Dead Sea. It is regarded as the lowest city in the world, at around 250 meters below sea level. I'm walking now on the grounds of the Tell es-Sultan, this is ancient Jericho.
You can see the new part of the city in the background, but some parts of this complex are dating back as far as 10,000 years. It's really remarkable. Large parts of Jericho remain underground, and are yet to be excavated. But a visit to this ancient site is an essential part of any trip to Jericho. These are the ruins of the Hisham Palace, built in the 8th century.
Supposedly an amazing structure, back in the day. However, it was destroyed by an earthquake shortly after it was built. The palace functioned as the Winter retreat of a Caliph named Hisham. And when it was discovered by archaeologists, they were quick to label it as the 'Versailles of the Middle East'. So this is the swimming pool and bathing house of the Hisham Palace. It's absolutely massive, and also beautifully decorated with mosaics.
The roof was created recently with the help of Japan, in order to protect the site. And also gives me some respite from the Sun. After visiting central Jericho, Nasser invited me for a hearty, and well deserved lunch. This is my best friend from Jericho.
How are you? Nice to meet you. We do some onions on the barbeque, and some tomatoes. We have a good lunch OK? So Nasser also brought his family, very nice people.
First bite, here we go! Great mix, wow, what a nice kebab. Believe it or not, I'm still in Jericho, I'm not in the Swiss Alps, but I'm in a cable car. Going up a little mountain to get a view of this incredibly old city. Jericho today is a small city, mostly relying on agriculture, and to some extent tourism. To make the most of a trip here, it's crucial to have your own transport, as many of the sights are located outside the city. The Dead Sea is one of the most popular places in the whole region, famous for its high salt levels, which actually keep you afloat.
There's a lot more to the Dead Sea than salt water alone, and I will cover this area more deeply in the next video. Not far from here is Qasr-al-Yahud, an isolated spot along the Jordan River, which is mostly of interest for religious reaons, as this was the reputed spot of Jesus' baptism by John. Other sights worth visiting are Nabi Musa, the place where Muslims believe Moses was buried, and St George's Monastery, built into a cliff, inside the beautiful canyons of Wadi Qelt.
We travel onwards to Nablus, a bustling and vibrant metropolis in the North of Palestine. The history of Nablus goes back millennia, but the city's old town, the Al-Qasaba, dates from the Ottoman era. It's the focal point for most travelers, and a fascinating place to get lost in. I'm walking through the old city of Nablus, which is incredibly atmospheric, and also quite thriving and busy. People selling all kinds of things, such as halva here, and vegetables as well. It's a busy little place! This market seems endless, it just keeps going and going.
People are extremely friendly, smiles all around. It's so much fun to walk here. I just left the hustle and bustle of the market to escape into a beautiful mosque. The Al-Kabir mosque is in the center of the old town. Let's have a look.
Islam, of course, is the main religion in Palestine, and an integral part of life for many people. The old city is dotted with historic mosques, adding to a real sense of community here. Kunafeh is probably the most famous Palestinian dessert, and popular around the Middle East.
It's made with spun pastry, soaked in sweet syrup, and layered with cheese. So behind me is the Al Aqsa kunafeh store. It's supposed to be the best kunafeh in Palestine, so let's dig in and grab a bite! So we don't understand each other, but I'm sure we're both really enjoying the kunafeh. What a tasty dish! That was a really good kunafeh. Very sweet, a little bit salty at the same time, and heavy, wow, that was heavy.
I thought it was a snack, but it feels more like a meal. After walking off some of the calories, I briefly stopped at a nearby factory, where another famous Nablus icon is produced. Nablus is also famous for its soap, that is made of olive oil, soda, and water.
And this is how they make it here. It's quite a special place to walk, a small (little) factory. That's the soap we're talking about. While the old city of Nablus is a beautiful and intriguing place to walk around, There's a number of other sights in and around the city that are worth a visit, which can be combined as a day trip. Overlooking Nablus is Mount Gerizim, an important site for the Samaritans, members of an ancient religions, related to Judaism. The steep road up has some beautiful viewpoints over Nablus, and the last town before the top of the mountain is actually home to one of the world's last Samaritan communities. Other places to visit around Nablus are Sebastiya, a friendly village with ancient ruins, including an amphitheatre, and Tell Balata, the remains of the first settlement in Nablus.
Our final stop, before traveling to Ramallah, is Jacob's Well, the spot where Christians believe a Samaritan woman offered Jesus a drink of water, after which he revealed that he is the Messiah. It's located in a beautiful church, surrounded by a tranquil garden. We finish our journey through Palestine in Ramallah, a young and dynamic city, attracting people from across the region, to find work and get educated.
While Ramallah lacks the tourist sights many other Palestinian cities offer, it makes up for it with a welcoming and cosmopolitan attitude. I'm now entering a fruit and vegetable market, which seems quite colorful and lively, even though the guys are just starting to get to work. They are preparing their foods. Good? Good. Ramallah is a commercial hub, and there's a strong entrepreneurial spirit here. New stores, restaurants, and cafes pop up regularly, providing the curious and hungry traveler with plenty of options to choose from.
Ramallah is also the political center of the West Bank, even though many Palestinians regard Jerusalem as their rightful capital. For those travelers interested in politics, the Yasser Arafat memorial, in his former presidential compound, is also worth a look. A popular excursion from Ramallah leads us to Taybeh, a small Christian village around 15 kilometers from the city. While it offers some beautiful churches and historic ruins, the star attraction here is this family owned brewery. So welcome to Taybeh Brewery company, the first micro brewery in the Middle East since 1994. We're making beers with local flavors like Arabic coffee, red hot chili peppers, zaatar, and so on.
So I invite you all to come stop by for a taste. Cheers! They also gave me a nice beer to sample, so here we go. Refreshing, nice and cold. Very good flavor as well.
And that concludes my journey through Palestine, a beautiful and eye opening destination. with incredible historic landmarks, important religious sites, stunning natural scenery, and friendly, welcoming people. I continue my travels through the Holy Land in the next episode, where I will be exploring Israel. For now, I hope this video gave you some travel ideas, or provided some new insights into this complicated, but fascinating part of the world.
Thanks for watching, and I hope to see you again next time. Travel safely!
2022-03-20 02:35
