Buenos Aires Like You’ve Never Seen: History, Football, and Cultural Surprises | Argentina Travel

Buenos Aires Like You’ve Never Seen: History, Football, and Cultural Surprises | Argentina Travel

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Argentina. A country of daily protests, nine defaults, and passionate tango. A land with abundant natural resources but a population so poor that people exchange dollars on the black market.

Behind me, you can see a line for the ATM. This is a vast former Spanish colony named after silver, which, ironically, isn’t even here. - It’s a myth—there’s no silver in Argentina. Alright, let’s go, go, go, go! Argentina, a country in the southern part of South America. It’s the second-largest country on the continent and the eighth-largest in the world. The nature here is diverse – with dry plains, deserts, and steppes coexisting alongside snowy mountains, glaciers, and rivers.

The country’s name comes from the Latin word "argentum," meaning silver. When Spanish settlers arrived in Argentina, they hoped to find vast reserves of precious metal. But they quickly realized they wouldn’t get rich from mining silver here. Still, the name stuck. Argentina has almost five times fewer inhabitants than neighboring Brazil.

The population is about 45 million, with around 92% living in cities, so outside urban areas, population density is quite low. So, if you, like me, decide to visit in the off-season to enjoy Argentina’s landscapes, you’ll experience a true introvert’s paradise. But first, let me show you Argentina’s main and most populous city, Buenos Aires.

Friends, I’m in Buenos Aires, the capital of Argentina. Locals call this city "Bairos" for short. The city itself is home to about 3 million people, but the greater metropolitan area has over 13 million.

The city was founded by the Spanish conqueror Pedro de Mendoza in 1536. It began as a small seaport, frequently attacked by the indigenous people. Eventually, settlers moved further inland, and the natives leveled the young port to the ground. It wasn’t rebuilt until 40 years later.

The place has a long name, let me try to say it: Ciudad de la Santissima Trinidad y Puerto de Nuestra Señora de Santa María de los Buenos Aires. Hope I said that right! It translates roughly as "City of the Most Holy Trinity and Port of Our Lady Saint Mary of the Good Winds." The Virgin Mary wasn’t mentioned by accident in the name of this maritime city. Since ancient times, sailors have called her "Our Lady, Star of the Sea." She was considered their protector, guiding them through storms.

Though, funnily enough, the title "Star of the Sea" for the Virgin Mary came about by accident – the result of a mistranslation from Hebrew. Now we’re on the July 9 Avenue, one of the city’s main streets. The avenue is named after the date of Argentina’s independence. On July 9, 1816, Argentina became independent.

But the most notable thing about this avenue isn’t just its name. It’s the fact that it’s 110 meters wide, making it the widest street in the world. In some areas, additional service lanes are added, stretching the width to 140 meters. Crossing the street can take several minutes, as you constantly have to stop for traffic lights.

It’s quite the street, a real street-street. Right in the center, they’ve created an express bus system hat runs back and forth. If you look behind me, you’ll even see a stop where you can hop on one of these express buses. There are four, five, six, even seven lanes of traffic going in each direction.

It’s a real powerhouse of a street, and you can feel the scale of it. But according to Wikipedia, this is the widest street in the world. By the way, an interesting point—behind me is the Obelisk, one of the main landmarks. Locals just call it the Obelisk.

The Obelisk called Obelisk. It's fascinating because it’s kind of like the Eiffel Tower in Paris. During various events, it's often decorated in different ways. Once, it was dressed up as a giant pencil, and on World AIDS Day they even covered it with a giant pink condom. Such are the interesting traditions here. I was in Argentina back in 2014.

In the eight years since, the country has changed, but its problems have stayed the same. I ran into some local issues as soon as I arrived. It's time, friends, to complain a little and share my adventures. I’ve spent the whole day today trying to buy a local SIM card. Turns out, it’s not as easy as you might think.

First, you have to physically buy a SIM card. And if you think they sell them in telecom stores, nope—they’re sold in kiosks. On the street, usually next to where you find newspapers. But after you buy the SIM card from the kiosk, you can’t just pop it into your phone and use it. You have to go to the actual telecom provider’s store to register the SIM card. Motorcyclists make it hard to even get there.

Once you're at the store, you need to register the card, provide your passport, top up your balance, and deal with other bureaucratic procedures. Only then should everything work. But first, I searched for the SIM card, and then I spent ages trying to find the telecom store.

When I finally got there, I found a one-hour line. In the end, I gave up and continued using my SIM card with roaming. What these local companies offer is just ridiculous.

And while I’m complaining, let me tell you about my experience buying stamps. When you go to the post office, naturally, not every post office here sells stamps. You have to find a specific post office, so there’s more wandering around. They send you from one office to another. And once you find the right place, you learn that one international stamp costs 5 dollars.

Something tells me these might be the most expensive stamps in the world. In the U.S., I think it’s about a dollar. In Europe, around one or one and a half euros.

I’m walking through the city center now, along a pedestrian street. There aren’t many high-end stores— mostly just Chinese junk and cheap goods. You can really tell that the standard of living here is low.

Everything looks pretty rundown. It could definitely be cleaner and nicer. In the 20th century, Argentina experienced several coups d’état. Leaders with opposing views introduced new reforms, repealing the laws of their predecessors, which led to social and economic instability in the 1990s. In 2001, the government defaulted on $132 billion of public debt.

A few months after the default, the unemployment rate jumped to 21%. More than half of the population lived below the poverty line. Over 20 years later, the state still hasn't been able to solve the problems of unemployment, crisis, and poverty.

In 2020, more than 42% of the population still lived below the poverty line. Additionally, due to the economic downturn during the pandemic, the country declared its ninth default. So, friends, the official exchange rate here is 110 Argentine pesos for 1 U.S. dollar. But on the black market, it’s 203 pesos— almost double the official rate. Before the pandemic, Argentina’s economy was one of the most prosperous in South America.

According to the World Bank, in 2020 Argentina ranked third in South America in terms of GDP per capita. The main sources of income for Argentina’s economy are natural energy resources and agriculture. Argentina ranks second in the world in shale gas reserves and fourth in shale oil reserves. According to the International Energy Agency, Argentina is also the fourth-largest producer of lithium, a mineral used in battery manufacturing.

Argentina primarily exports agricultural products— corn, soybeans, flour, oil, and malt supplements. However, since the pandemic, no resources have been able to save the country from rising inflation. To protect citizens from rising prices, the Argentine government adjusts wages in line with inflation. For example, last fall, when prices had increased by 51% over the year, the government raised the minimum wage. Initially, they set the threshold at 31,104 pesos, which at the time was roughly $316.5. Then in October, they added about $8 more to that minimum.

Beautiful Buenos Aires. The trees, the shade— this neighborhood is called Palermo. Interestingly, many streets here in downtown Buenos Aires are paved with cobblestones.

There used to be a tramway system, and the rails are still there. Over time, the cobblestones or something beneath them started to wear down. Instead of removing the rails, which was the right call, they simply covered them with a layer of asphalt. Now, here is a magnificent alley lined with towering plane trees—just beautiful. - And this is the subway.

The subway usually has a yellow "cartel" sign, and in the city center, you can see poles... - So people don’t stick advertisements on them. - It’s a curious invention, really. You’ll notice that the subway is very shallow, with a maximum depth of 6 meters. It’s not fancy, no expensive materials here, but there’s plenty of creativity.

The fare is 38 pesos. - You can even see some of that creativity on the floors. - A unique issue with the subway here is related to labor unions. Each station has its own union committee, and if a committee decides to go on strike, the train won’t stop at that station. - This means certain stations might not be operational if unions are protesting. - And these unions are completely separate entities, registered independently.

Unions are a powerful branch of government, originally empowered by Perón. Unions can topple any politician here. The unusual pink building behind me is the presidential palace in Plaza de Mayo, Buenos Aires.

There are two legends explaining why this residence has been painted pink ince the 19th century. One says that an Argentine president ordered the palace to be painted pink to reconcile two rival political parties, one using red and the other white. Mixing the colors gave pink. Another theory suggests that the color came from the practice of adding ox blood to construction materials, supposedly improving quality.

The Argentine presidential palace has odd proportions. An arch in the middle splits the building, with one half larger than the other. That’s because it used to be two different buildings— a post office and a government building— merged to form the palace. Today, the palace’s color and facade are preserved in their original form. They’ve added pink lighting to the exterior, and there are free tours every day.

The guides ask tourists to stay together to avoid disturbing the office work. And, as expected in democratic countries, there’s always a large crowd of protesters in front of the presidential palace. You’ll see tents set up with demands. Protests happen every day— people gather to demand something, ask for something, expel someone, overthrow someone, or appoint someone. The president has plenty of action here. And yes, there are even people standing with bows— literally armed—right in front of the palace.

Hello there. What’s this they’re selling? Amulets? Ah, they’re memorials for COVID victims. People began placing stones here with the names of those who passed away from the virus. The office of the president has existed in Argentina since the early 19th century, though general elections only began a century later. The head of state is elected for a four- year term with the possibility of a second term.

Right now, the country is being governed by Javier Milei. Before him, it was the lawyer Alberto Fernández. his presidency has been marked by the pandemic, not without controversy.

In 2020, Fernández imposed COVID restrictions, including a nationwide lockdown. But he didn’t follow the strict rules himself. A year after the first wave of the virus, footage emerged from the presidential residence showing the First Lady celebrating her birthday in July 2020 with friends, none of whom were wearing masks. Outraged, the public demanded an investigation.

The prosecutor’s office launched an inquiry. Fernández appeared in court without a lawyer, admitted to hosting guests during the lockdown, apologized, and pledged to donate four months of his salary to medical research. Another controversy involving Fernández occurred in June 2021. At a press conference with Spain’s Prime Minister, Fernández quoted a local musician, saying, “Mexicans come from the Indians, Brazilians come from the jungle, and Argentines come from European ships.” He intended to highlight Argentina’s large population of European descendants, but it was perceived as racist, forcing him to apologize again—this time on Twitter.

The Falklands are islands in the South Atlantic Ocean, home to around 3,000 people. They hold little value beyond symbolic importance. Since gaining independence, Argentina considered the Falklands its own. But in 1833, Great Britain seized them, which became a national trauma for Argentina.

Argentina has never recognized the loss of the islands. In 1981, General Leopoldo Galtieri became president of Argentina. To strengthen his power, he decided to wage a small, victorious, and very patriotic war.

In the spring of 1982, he attempted to reclaim the Falklands for Argentina. The British didn’t tolerate his and sent their forces to defend the territory. It wasn’t a full-scale war between Argentina and the UK. The fighting lasted just 74 days and was confined to the disputed islands. In total, around 900 people died, with British losses totaling fewer than 300. Britain won the war and retained control of the Falklands.

The defeat in the Falklands War led to the downfall of Argentina’s military junta. This defeat was the final straw for the Argentine people. Galtieri was overthrown after mass protests and demonstrations. In 1983, the new military president, Reynaldo Bignone, held elections that restored democracy in the country. So, while they expected a small, victorious war, in the end, they buried their own junta.

There’s an interesting monument. You can see the sculptor wasn’t great with proportions. Naturally, it’s from 1982. It appears to depict an Argentine soldier standing on the Malvinas, the Falkland islands, with one foot on each of the two main islands.

He looks sadly at a lantern, similar to those found in some Moscow metro stations. The famous first "shopping center" of the world, London's Harrods, opened its only branch in Buenos Aires in 1823— not in Milan, Paris, or New York, but in Buenos Aires. It existed until the 20th century, and unfortunately, today we see the state it’s in. The British left it behind after the Malvinas War. What was once a prestigious shopping destination is now in a state of decline.

According to politicians, the reason for Argentina’s decline is the departure of the British. This decline can be traced to the policies of Perón. - Juan Perón, Argentina’s president and dictator, came to power in 1946. He’s credited with creating populist laws, which, some argue, still hinder the country’s economic growth. His policies were aimed at the masses, and during his years in power, he introduced hundreds of laws concerning labor and social welfare.

He increased the influence of labor unions, which remain a significant force in Argentina to this day. Additionally, Perón’s government carried out large-scale industrialization and nationalized assets previously owned by foreign countries, such as Argentina’s railways and public utilities. But even more fascinating than Perón is the figure of his wife, Evita.

I visited the Recoleta Cemetery where she’s buried. In the heart of Buenos Aires, you’ll find Eva Perón’s grave at the Recoleta Cemetery. Eva Perón is arguably the most famous woman in Argentina, beloved by the people, and the wife of President Juan Perón. They met in 1944, and when he came to power in 1946, she became involved in politics. Why was she so beloved? Because she embodied the Cinderella story— a rise from rags to riches. Evita came from a poor, large family with no real chances for success, yet she met Juan Perón and became the First Lady.

Her story of transformation from the bottom to the top symbolized hope for many in Argentina— the belief that miracles can happen if you believe. By the way, it was under her that women in Argentina gained the right to vote. She died young, at just 33, and the country was plunged into deep mourning after her passing.

For several weeks, her coffin stood as millions of people from all over Argentina came to bid her farewell. But it’s important to understand that while there was immense public love for her, there was also a great deal of public hatred. Many believed she was fake, undeserving of the wealth and resources she had access to, and, after all, being the wife of a dictator wasn’t exactly a revered title.

Even today, some people hate her while others adore her. Nevertheless, the name of Eva Perón is everywhere in Argentina. There’s a city named afte her, streets and monuments in her honor. Her image is printed on banknotes, and even an asteroid bears her name. And here, in the heart of Buenos Aires, lies the family mausoleum of the Duarte family, where, supposedly, Eva Perón’s ashes rest. Why do I say supposedly? Well, there’s a local legend that she never really died, that her ashes aren’t actually here, and that she’s still alive somewhere, living a happy life.

Many people just couldn’t believe that someone so stunning, beautiful, and young could die so suddenly. The site is full of plaques and signs, but none of it makes much sense. Now, Duarte—this is he family crypt of the Duarte family, Eva Perón’s original family. There are some plaques here. She passed away in 1952 after having a botched, underground abortion at a young age. It didn’t go well, and this ultimately led to her death at the age of 33.

Interestingly, by local standards, the family crypt is rather modest, tucked away in a quiet corner of the cemetery. Some other family mausoleums here are much larger and more extravagant. One might have expected a grander resting place for the beloved figure she was. But near the national library—built on the site where Juan Perón’s palace once stood—there’s a large monument dedicated to her.

The monument is far more impressive than the crypt in the cemetery. There’s an entrance fee to visit the cemetery, costing $12 per ticket. Curiously, they don’t accept cash, only card payments. Why? Well, if they accepted cash— especially currency exchanged on the black market— you could save money and pay only $6. But they seem to have caught on and now only accept card payments. The crypts here are all fairly similar; on the left, you’ll find more elaborate family crypts belonging to local politicians.

This is a wealthy, wealthy cemetery. You can wander around, admiring sculptures and looking for familiar names. There are countless family tombs and memorial plaques everywhere.

In the center of the cemetery, you’ll find graves of local military leaders. And now, a little moment of architecture. Behind me is the National Library of Argentina.

It’s the largest library in the country, and it was designed by Clorindo Testa, one of the stars of Argentine Brutalism. He was born in Sicily but moved to Argentina in the 1920s, where he studied architecture and was influenced by Le Corbusier’s ideas, particularly those in the Athens Charter. Testa brought those ideas to Argentina and designed several architectural masterpieces, which we’ll see today. This library is one of them.

The competition to design it was held in 1961, construction began in 1971, but then political turmoil, revolutions, and a regime change caused delays. In the end, the building wasn’t finished until 1992, making it one of Argentina’s longest-running construction projects. Despite the delays, the building is now considered one of the most important architectural landmarks of the last century.

Brutalist architecture tends to divide opinion. Some people dislike it, finding it too harsh, while others appreciate its raw honesty. Buenos Aires has several iconic Brutalist buildings, and this library is one of the most famous. It doesn’t feel as heavy as some might expect but has a certain lightness to it. If it were cleaned up and modernized with contemporary materials and seamless glass panels, it would look incredible by today’s standards.

And keep in mind, this design comes from the 1960s. But then, for some reason, they decided to ruin this beautiful structure by adding a stage inside. What a shame. How are we supposed to appreciate the architecture now? The clean concrete and traces of formwork were intended to be celebrated, not hidden. Back then, the idea was that architecture should be honest. There was no need to cover up those traces— they were meant to add character and interest.

Inside, there’s a reading room, storage areas, and some modest interior designs, but the building itself is the real star. The stairways, landscaping— it’s all part of one unified structure. The building almost looks like an alien spaceship that landed here in the center of Buenos Aires. There are some skylights and other architectural details designed to bring light into the spaces below. The building is massive, and although it’s now cluttered with air conditioning units and other modern additions, the original design still shines through.

And right behind me is one of the most unusual buildings in the Buenos Aires banking district. It’s the London Bank building. Well, it used to be a London bank.

And this too was designed by Clorindo Testa. It’s considered a gem of local brutalism. This building frequently appears in lists of the best examples of this architectural style. Built in 1966, it still functions as a bank today. What’s particularly striking is the contrast with its surroundings.

All around it are classic bank buildings with heavy metal doors and grand, gilded entrances. Over there, a brass door. Everything feels so classic, rich—just how a bank should look. And then, out of nowhere, Testa shows up and says, “We're going to put an incomprehensible spaceship from Star Wars right here in the middle of Buenos Aires.”

They don't let pedestrians pass here. This is what the building looks like. It also has amazing interiors. The inside looks like the guts of some animal, I don’t know—there are rib-like structures.

Right in front of the entrance, there's a roof, creating a sort of patio. By the way, when the architect first designed this building, the idea was for anyone to be able to walk in. But now there’s a security guard, so apparently, not just anyone can enter anymore. The contrast is impressive. Classic massive bank buildings with rich decor—columns, porticos—and then this concrete monstrosity that seems like it just landed and ate whatever bank was here before.

They even put up a plaque for the building’s 50th anniversary. Clarinda Testa, architect, 1966. This guy was a mastermind. I think the bank director should be sitting up there.

If I were the bank director, I’d sit up there. They’ve ruined the interior, but the space is still interesting. But you can't film inside because the guards won’t allow it.

Maybe they’re worried about bank secrets or something. Anyway, right next to it, there's another classic building. What’s interesting here is they’ve slapped an odd skyscraper in the middle, and around it are walls that look like classical facades of some building that may have been here.

But maybe there was never a historical building here, and the skyscraper's architect decided to shamefully hide his creation behind decorative screens that resemble a facade— thinking they’d blend in better with the surroundings. That yellow monster over there—that’s how they drive armored cash vans here. The next day, I visited a neighborhood that government officials were afraid to enter just a few years ago.

These slums are called Villa 31, depending on how you pronounce it. I was here, by the way, eight years ago, and back then it was super dangerous. You couldn’t just walk in here—I had to hide my camera under a jacket. My guide said that no tourist or foreigner had ever left these slums with a camera, money, or without getting beaten up. Now the situation has changed— you can walk around here freely, and the police ride through the narrow streets on quad bikes. So, I think it’s much safer now, but we’ll see.

I hope everything goes well since I’m here without a guide. The streets here in the slums are amazing— so narrow, and all the houses have bars on the windows and staircases climbing up to the fifth or even sixth floor. It’s hard to understand how all of this was built, how they run utilities, how people live here, but this has been developing over many years and decades. By the way, I even saw someone in a wheelchair being pushed around.

Cars can’t get through these narrow streets, but a motorcycle with a trailer can. It's the police, right? Look, they’re so cool on their ATVs. It's amazing, but here, you see, there are even cleaners trying to pick things up in this dirt. It’s dirty here—dust, earth, sand—but in terms of household garbage, it’s relatively clean because they do clean up. Oh, look, some urban development.

They’re planning to build a small public space here. They’ve torn down a couple of houses and are going to put up a health center. By the way, I’ve noticed a lot of people here wear nice sneakers. I guess people are really investing in sneakers. What do they sell here? Corn flakes, nuts, bay leaves, rosemary, mint and some other herbs. In general, Latin American slums all look very similar in terms of architecture— whether in Brazil, Peru, or elsewhere.

You could even mix them up. There are differences in safety, but overall, things are getting better every year. Even 10 years ago, when I was traveling through these slums, it was really dangerous. There were places, like in Brazil, where they say police don’t go, and it felt super dangerous. But now, there are fewer and fewer of those places. Now, if someone doesn't go somewhere, it's just because it’s a mess and there’s nothing to do.

Even in Rio de Janeiro, when I visited the most dangerous slums and interviewed local gangsters, drug dealers, and the rest, they would shamefully ask me to blur their faces and alter their voices. God forbid the police found out—they’d be in trouble. The world’s changing— there aren't any of those hardcore criminals left like there used to be. This is a Peruvian restaurant. Not really sure if it’s here or there.

But it doesn’t look too appetizing. Why does he need my passport number? Just in case, I guess? There’s a police station right here in the slum, and I’m trying to get them to give us a comment. So far, things have been pretty fun. There's no real sense of danger. On the other hand, there are almost no young men around.

Maybe it’s a working day, but there are mostly children, old people, and women. It's a little dirty, but when has that ever stopped us? Half an hour passed since we approached the police officers to ask for a tour. We said, “Can you answer a few questions,” and then, word by word, they saw the camera and said, “Well, Ilya? How are you going to be walking around here with a camera—we’ll give you a real tour, walk you around, and answer all your questions.”

So, it's been half an hour now, and they're still looking for the person who's supposed to accompany me. On the other hand, I've never walked through a slum with the police before, so maybe it will be interesting. What's his name? Pablo. Pablo. - Yes, apparently, they often dismantle some of these houses here and move people to areas with more space and better conditions. The writing on the wall says, "don't wee here".

See over there? - Ah, no, we're not going to do that. It’s not... well, everyone here is decent, I mean, "don’t wee here". I kept wondering what was written everywhere. Turns out, it's just a reminder to behave properly.

It's to prevent the houses from growing taller. Back when houses were here, they made sure they didn’t expand upwards. - It’s because of the highway; it’s not safe. - And some people were tempted to build higher than the overpass, to watch the cars go by.

- You know, something like that. There’s a whole dynamic here, trying to figure out how to manage this. Naturally, some people don’t want to leave. That’s how it always is. - Ask when the last murder was here. - A few months ago.

It’s been quiet for a while. - So far, it’s peaceful. Okay. - You sound disappointed. - I thought we were coming to some dangerous place. But the biggest crime so far is vandalizing the playground. - You should be glad that, after eight years, where we once had to run in short bursts, you can now walk freely.

- I am glad. That cat’s cute. Hello. Life is getting better. Maybe you could even rent something here on Airbnb.

These slums started in the 1930s when migrants flooded into Buenos Aires during the Great Depression. Unemployed migrants began settling here near the railroad tracks, and slowly, block by block, this neighborhood grew. Throughout the history of these slums, the city authorities have tried to relocate people or come up with solutions, but they haven’t had much success. Some time ago, they even offered people loans of $25,000 to buy property or build a house— just to get them to leave.

But, as you can see, no one really left. Now, one of the newer ideas is to build inexpensive social housing where people can move out of these makeshift homes. We’ll check it out later, but only time will tell if this plan works. - There’s a market we’re heading to now. These days, you can find everything you need right here in the neighborhood.

It wasn’t like this before. If you needed something fixed, you had to go somewhere else, but now it’s all here. We talked about how there’s not enough space; too many people, not enough room. There's a sign about separating trash. - Oh, wow. I wonder if anyone really separates their trash here.

But look, it does seem nice. They’ve got some kind of sausage, and parts of animals I can’t quite identify. But it looks pretty cool. Maybe, in the years I’ve been away, the Villa 31 neighborhood really has improved.

But the problem of slums doesn’t end here. Outside Buenos Aires, in the surrounding province, there are lots of small villages and municipalities where the standard of living is much lower than in the capital. According to a survey by the INDEC statistical agency, after the pandemic started, the poverty rate in Buenos Aires was 16%.

In the nearby suburbs, more than 51% of residents were living below the poverty line. This is the kind of gap between the capital and the areas just a few kilometers away. I visited one of the poorest suburbs of Buenos Aires and found volunteers helping the impoverished. These volunteers organize free kitchens for the locals, help adults learn trades, and secure educational grants for those seeking an education. - There's a team that runs everything.

The volunteers come, help out, cook meals... What about food? The food we prepare comes from donations. -...using whatever they’ve collected or received as donations. - Where do they get the donations? - Moms in schools collect donations and bring them to us.

- From the capital as well? - No, just from the local schools. - Do they bring food only to certain special places too? - Yes, so only to... - No, no, only to local schools in San Martino. - How much does a poor family survive on? - The government gives 16,000 pesos a month for a family. - The government gives each family 16,000 pesos. From the age of 16, they teach young people so they can find work later on.

There's a workshop for altering clothes, tailoring, repairs, and so on. They sell what they make, and then split the profits. Some of the money goes to food, some to pay wages. The workers get something, and the guys here making things also get a cut. And, depending on how sales go, that's how it moves forward.

Many people who live in these isolated areas have never been to the capital, because it feels so far away and disconnected. - Everyone stays in the province. - People rarely leave their zone. I was with a group of partners who brought us more funds. When we've seen the obelisk on 9th July Avenue, they asked me what that was.

- So, this is her house, and she lives here with her three sons. - Wow! - She wasn’t born here; at some point, when her parents couldn’t afford rent, they bought this small plot of land, built a house as best they could, and now she’s trying to rebuild a life with her sons. - So, this isn’t Buenos Aires anymore. This is the province.

- A province. Same question: she lives here, so what's stopping her from keeping the place clean? - She has 6 kinds. - She has six kids. What does she do for a living? - I take everyone to school and back. - How does she make money? - The government gives 3500 persos per kid.

And a grocery card for 6000 pesos. - Is that a month? - Yes, everything's per moth. She has a grocery card worth 6,000 pesos for food— - Enough for the whole family? - Some people collect cardboard to earn more money Where's their dad? - They don't have a dad? - No - How old are you? - I'm 28 - She's 28 - 28 years old with six kids. Did she have any education? - Did you study anywhere? Do you have an education? - I went to primary school - Just elementary school. - Elementary school... What are her plans for the future? - She's learning to sew. - I mean, there’s a dirt floor, some old clothes, garbage everywhere.

The house is made of planks with a metal roof. There’s a bed, and some guy is watching TV. And this is where she lives with her six kids.

What do the kids want to be when they grow up? - I will study - I will study too - And who do you want to be? Who do you want to work as? Are you going to play football? What about the girls? - What are you going to do? - I'll be a model - Who do you want to be? - I don't know - Imagine you can teach other kids, what do you think? - I don't know - Or you can be a nanny and babysit other children - We'll see - You'll need to study and read a lot - Yes, I'll need to study and read Maybe companionsэ or models, soccer players. So, no one here plans to work? And the restroom... Oh, there is a hole. - There's no roof here This is where they sell dr*gs, right? - Well, you can ask them.

From the looks of some people lying around, they’re not just selling dr*gs, but using them too. - Are the dr*gs strong here? - Yes - Do you sell co**ine or something else? - There's a lot of different stuff. It's easier to say what we don't have After walking through the province, Buenos Aires seems like a perfect, prosperous city. Amazing things are happening here, friends. Look at this ottoman and this sofa.

I was sure when I first saw this that someone just put old furniture outside. But no, these are concrete benches. If you look closely, you can see it’s made from concrete. These holes let the water drain so it doesn’t accumulate.

Each one is handmade, uniquely molded. They use real fabric to shape the concrete, which leaves behind all the texture and folds. And you can sit on it, right? Amazing. There’s a little ottoman and a big bench. They’re all over Buenos Aires. The waterfront here is cool, a former industrial area.

You can still see all these brick buildings, cranes, and harbor structures. In general, this old industrial zone has turned into a trendy spot with bars, restaurants, and hangouts. And there’s even a bridge here. You can tell right away that it was designed by Santiago Calatrava. He’s a great architect known for creating engineering marvels like this. For some unknown reason, the bridge is closed.

What’s going on? These contrasts are striking. An old sailing ship next to modern skyscrapers. This bridge rotates on its support, and you can see the other support it rests on when the bridge is opened. It’s an incredible structure in terms of aesthetics and engineering.

Such a cool bridge— light and elegant. It’s one of the symbols of Buenos Aires. Look at this odd little car; I can’t quite figure it out. But it could be a Renault.

The most important detail, of course, is the license plate. It’s almost like Warlamov’s. You can still find old cars in Buenos Aires. The city’s history is tied to the Ford brand.

Ford was the first manufacturer to open a factory in La Boca in 1920. That’s a neighborhood in Buenos Aires. They started making the famous Ford Model T there. You can still see many old Fords around the city. Some are even in pretty good condition. Let's take a look at the neighborhood where the American Ford factory once operated.

Meanwhile, I've arrived in the La Boca neighborhood. It's a former industrial area, and today it's undergoing a transformation. Well, sort of.

For tourists, this area is mainly famous for its colorful houses. These houses are featured on many postcards and in every guidebook. Tour buses bring people here just to see these colorful houses, admire them, and think, "Wow, how pretty!" So, I came here too. But honestly? It's total nonsense.

First off, the area itself looks like some industrial zones you'd see in the U.S., with similar architecture. Endless hangars, warehouses, and trash everywhere. Secondly, the section with these colorful houses is tiny, really artificial, just made up. Sure, you can stop by to take a couple of photos. But why bother when there are so many other amazing neighborhoods in Buenos Aires? There are countless tourist shops, and everywhere you look, it's Diego Maradona— he's the biggest star here.

By the way, Diego Maradona kind of resembles Viktor Tsoi. So, you can buy his portraits and say it's Viktor Tsoi—Tsoi lives! Footballer Diego Maradona is an Argentine national symbol. He became a legend after scoring two goals against England in the 1986 World Cup quarterfinals. At the time, Argentina was still reeling from the Falklands War, and tensions with England were high. This spilled over into the match and the atmosphere among the fans.

In the middle of the game, Maradona scored a legendary goal. But the truth is, it was a foul— he hit the ball with his hand, but the referee didn’t see it and allowed the goal. After the match, Maradona jokingly said it was the "Hand of God" that scored. Just a few minutes after that first goal, he scored another. Thanks to him, Argentina reached the World Cup final and won Maradona had his struggles with dr*gs. He was once arrested for co**ine possession, but Argentinians still adore him.

His most devoted fans even founded a religion in his honor, using his autobiography as their holy scripture. When Maradona passed away in 2020, Argentina declared three days of national mourning. Crowds of people gathered to grieve at key places in his life— stadiums, public squares, even at the morgue where his body was taken. Look at this genius of an artist. How could anyone disrespect one of Argentina’s most important symbols like that? Yes, Maradona is everywhere here— tons of graffiti, and then all these endless colorful houses. After seeing enough of Buenos Aires, we’re heading deeper into the continent.

In the next video, I'll show you the stunning landscapes of northern and southern Argentina. You'll see salt flats, join me in exploring a glacier and hike the trails of Patagonia. But for now, don't forget to like this video, subscribe to the channel, and leave a comment. If you enjoyed the video, share it on Reddit and send the link to your friends on WhatsApp. In the next video, I'll show you the stunning landscapes of northern and southern Argentina.

You'll see salt flats, join me in exploring a glacier and hike the trails of Patagonia. But for now, don't forget to like this video, subscribe to the channel, and leave a comment. If you enjoyed the video, share it on Reddit and send the link to your friends on WhatsApp.

2024-10-20 06:54

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