BMW E46 M3 TOURING BUILD | Ep2 | Checking RACP cracks on the 318d | ENG SUB
First of all, we have to get rid of the engine, suspension entire drivetrain to put such a little beauty in. And this is none other than the already well-known E46 M3 S54B32 in-line 6-cylinder NA engine Still plenty enough power for the street today, especially in a station wagon instead of an 18d. So. So far. The engine with the gearbox and the propshaft have already been removed, the cooling system, the slam panel, the small parts have been removed from the engine bay. Remained only the harness the DSC, the brake, insulations, heat protectors, brake piping and I even made a small connection for the steering. I don't need these servo pipes anymore anyway, Basically a 10mm pipe connector and two clamps and the pavement remains clean.
Ok, from the small 18d, the cooling system, the slam panel, the engine, gearbox, and the little things from the engine bay are already out. Now it is time to continue with other things but there is one more before that. That's right! The led lights have arrived. The new lights are finally ready, they just need to be installed.
One done, six more to go. Let's go! Well, test now! One, two, three! What a difference! That'll be fine. I really like the new lighting, I think it's awesome, but now I have to start working. I will remove the rear axle first, I am very curious to know how good those connection points are.
On a 318d that is 20 years old and has been out in water and rain and mud and everything for two years. This will still have to be pulled out "This will be a good clip" "Dad stop blowing..." What? "Dad stop blowing..." "5 minutes later..." Yeah, something like that. Some animal got into my mouth We'll whistle it out there's some aaaanimal spider You have to be a little careful here, fuel likes to come out.
Although there isn't much anymore, so So that something doesn't get sucked in Hopefully too much fuel won't come out It's worth keeping it until you get the new brake pipes, and bend it into place, because it's very good as a template. It is worth keeping it for at least that long. Then remove the fuelpipes and the two rear brake pipes, then cleaning. Good, we're done with that, now the brake pipe can come.
So far, the fuel piping is ready, the brake piping, all piping is removed, The next step is a little cleaning of all the dirt, I usually do this by first spraying this type of Brigéciol This I found the cheapest 5-liter Brigéciol D3 at LM Hungarolube, in this 5-liter package for 8620 HUF, which is now equal to 22-23 Euros. But the cheapest here is also the 1 liter version. This is suitable for cleaning all kinds of oily and greasy surfaces. After spraying the surface with it, I let it stand for 15 minutes, and when the 15 minutes has passed, I wash it well with this concentrate and sponge with warm water.
For washing, I use this blue stuff called Mavit Kék Álom which, even in its name, contains blue powder it's almost like a washing powder. I found the 1 kg package cheapest at Fito-Trade for HUF 7,000 gross, which is about 18-19 Euros This is a brutally good cleaning agent. But it's really like 46-in-one. This is good for engine blocks, car washes, carpets, curtains, body, hair, windows, really for everything! Brilliant! I love it! It's true that a 20-year-old is 20 years old, but it will be pretty clean and you will be able to see the cracks quite well, if there are any.
Let's hope there aren't any! Let's wash! Washing is more or less done, it looks like this. It's not very nice with all this rust, but it's only been degreased for now, and all the oily dirt washed off, it doesn't look very dangerous, but it definitely has a few cracks I noticed one here, here. This is one of the usual places, isn't it, and what still tends to crack is this point the right front, and here it seems I can see a small crack here, but needs to be grinded a little more from the rust, then I can see more. So, fuel pipes and brake pipes removed grinded a bit make the cracks more visible Let's see how bad it is! The connection points usually crack in two places, once here at the right front and once here at the left rear.
Of course, it is possible that cracks also occur in the others, but these two are the most typical. Surprisingly or not surprisingly, the little 18d here at the left rear in this tiny section between the two points is cracked, unlikely to look good, but I'll try. This is not too visible, the other one is much more so. Here too, between the two points that I marked, there is a crack I didn't see a crack anywhere else, but we are full of a lot of rust. So we have to replace the brake and fuel tank brake pipe and fuel tank brackets, all of them, and we also have to install the missing consoles that are on the M3 but not on the 18d, such as here for the V-brace, we need two small brackets in the corner back here one for the exhaust and in the engine compartment we need 2 for the secondary air pump and the expansion tank.
I am talking about these two bracket sets, they will be the ones that will replace the rusty brackets These two and these two for fixing the fuel tank and these two are the rear brake pipe bracket. Also, this bracket set, which is needed for the M3 conversion, these two will go in the engine bay, this is the extra exhaust bracket and these two brackets will hold the V-brace. So these two will be positioned roughly like this, the extra support bracket for the exhaust will come here, won't it the extra bracket for the V-brace will come here on one side and its counterpart on the other side, we just have to fix here.
The replacement pieces for the brackets are made of stainless steel also for the left side also for the brake pipe, also made of stainless steel and the small front bracket is also stainless steel. The bottom looks like it's already prepared, but I'm going to reassemble this rear axle, then since unfortunately I'm not very good at welding, we have to roll over to my bodywork team, where we'll weld up the rear fenders, make the trunk floor plate because of the M3 exhaust and of course we will weld on the reinforcements regardless of the fact that it has such a small crack, we will replace the rusty-shitty brackets and we will put on the brackets that will be needed for the M3 conversion. Let's go! And the install is simply the reverse of the removal process. As you can see, the garage is empty, the Touring is out, and we have practically reached the point where the car should now be repaired and assembled afterwards. It's a bit like Lego.
We have an empty chassis and after we have fixed it, we can put together with M3 parts as we want. There are people who only swap the engine, the transmission, the front-rear axle and maybe not even the exhaust to their Touring from the M3, but in my opinion, if you want a complete M3 Touring and a real M3 Touring, then the chassis has to be done as well. I'll show you. Because it's good, it's good that it's a sleeper, it has an M3 engine, and we can overtake the other I don't know, the 30i-s and and these but, that's not the real thing! I think it will be the real thing, if we convert the entire body completely to an M3. That's it guys for today's video, in the next video will definitely talk about these things and how to hang them on the car.
If you liked this episode, press a like, if you want to see the how the series continues, then subscribe, and see you in the next video! "5 minutes later..." Yeah, something like that.