Непал послековидный или Распечатать Ампфулапча. Серия 1 Удивительное стечение обстоятельств. 4K
Finally, an invitation has been sent. With such a piece of paper from the Department of Immigration, Nepal is getting closer. In the introduction, I must at least briefly tell you how a dream turned into an idea, matured in my head for 10 years, transformed, resisted circumstances and finally materialized into tickets to Kathmandu, a PCR test and an invitation from the Department of Tourism. What does it matter to you though? Let's start quickly !!! So, I came to this city again. Once again, after 8 years. Of course, a lot has changed: the area has been asphalted, the cars have become younger, the mess has become less. But Nepal will always remain Nepal. The adventure begins!
Hello brothers! The situation is this: yesterday I went for a walk and asked one person where to buy a map. Well, of course he became attached, started asking where I was going, and then said that his brother was organizing expeditions and he would offer me an awesome price. I went up to his office in Kathmandu, and he began to offer me the same prices like: "740 dollars - climbing the Mera Peak." I told him that I want it for $ 500 and I also want to go through the Amphulapche Pass, and I could use a good porter who knows how to twist borax and walk in crampons. Then he promised me that the porter
and the guide would be in one person. I said, "Okay," and we agreed on $ 1100. I promised to return at 6. Then the owner of Mera Lodge came to my hotel, and I told him that his offer was no longer relevant, I want it for $ 1000. He counted for a long time, wrote on a piece of paper, thought, called and made an agreement. As a
result, he sent me a message tonight that such a person would be my porter-guide, I no longer remember his last name. I safely flew to Lukla. This guy met me at the airport and volunteered to help carry the backpack to the hotel. In general, we arrive at the hotel, and this guy, who is my porter guide, has never been to Mera Peak, has never heard of Amphulapche, knows less English than I do. We called the owner of Mera Lodge and said it wouldn't work that way . As a result, after lengthy negotiations,
we came to an agreement with this guy. Now I don’t pronounce his name so that he doesn’t turn around and wait for me . He took me to his cozy house, served a pugda there (or rather, his wife served), collected all his things: boots, spikes on boots, a sleeping bag. And now we go. I hope everything will be fine. So
watch where fate takes us on this trip! This dog goes with us to Mera Peak! Indeed, the head is spinning from all those problems that need to be solved before the start of the track. But at last I am on the trail and now I can relax, or rather unload my head. Enjoy a light load - I hope my backpack will not be heavier than 20 kg., To disconnect from digital problems - here I have no connection, let alone the Internet, and contemplate unfamiliar places - this is my first time here.
It looks like a pass. Yeah, Tomorrow it will be very difficult. Zatrava-La pass? Yeah. Ice? Yeah, ice. The track to Mera peak goes south, unlike all the popular routes to Everest or Gokyo Lakes, which I was already 10 years ago.
Mera track - passes through wilder places, there are no caravans with yaks and crowds of tourists. Today , March 19, by all standards, is not the season for this track, besides, the pandemic has made its own adjustments ... In the very first teahouse, Onchhu (this is the name of my new porter and guide) learns that in Chutang - where we planned to spend the night , all lodges are closed and no one is there. How much? Okay. Chilie? Its good for cooking. Is that enough? Yes.
So we had to buy food because the hotels are closed today . We go through the fairy forest. The way to Chutanga is not difficult for three hours with a slight climb - 600 meters. Just right - the first day, do not strain. Although when compared with the opposite track to the Everest region - in it, the altitude of 3400 is gained only in Namche Bazar, on the second day.
We went 3300 in altitude and there is some heavenly place , is it really Chutanga? What is this? Chutanga? No, that is 1 hour till Chutanga. This is Tuk-Din. OK, we'll rest and go. You probably ask - what is this bag of 25 kilograms? Oh yes ... I haven't told
you how a dream turned into an idea ... But this is a long story, so I will briefly say that after Mera-Peak we have an autonomous planned for three days, and I also want to go to Mera with my equipment ... Therefore, in the bag: tent, iron, boots and 1.5 kg. grub. Plus Wanchu's things - we distributed a little between my backpack and the bag, because the bag is not made of rubber.
Would you like to try my tea? This is called Ivan-tea. This is planted in Russia. Oh, Thank you. "Thank you in nepali is Tuche". Is that good? Yeah? good tea! This is Chutanga. Because the height is already 3455. Great hotel, but everything is closed, we will have to put up a tent.
So, the local owners live in Lukla, and when they see that someone is going upstairs, they ask if you will spend the night in the Lodge, and run to prepare you the night and food. Is this Chutanga? Yes. We'll put tent here. Beauty! It's beautiful! Overnight in a tent in Chutang was not planned, but when you have a tent, you become more free.
Not far? yeah? You put garlic in soup? Yeah? and chili. There was only one spoon, but Onchhu did an excellent job with chopsticks made from improvised means. Well, that's how she is Chutanga. Lonely Lodge.
In the evening, two events happened: While we were admiring the surroundings, a crow climbed under the awning of our tent and stole one Doshirak. And to hell with him - let him choke. What did the crow steal? One food. Only one? Yeah. It's delicious! But when it got dark, Onchhu received a call: they say there is no one on the route except you and it is not profitable for us to work.
Bye. This meant that for two days' journey ahead there was no bed or food. It's good that I was thrifty and brought snacks from Russia. Therefore, I rejected the offer of his Sherpa to run to Lukla for food: we will somehow last two days on one pack of Doshirak, nut mixtures and Ivan Aidigo tea! In short, we will only eat snacks, so what can we do.
It got dark, the night here is long: it gets dark at 6:30 it gets dark at 5:30 ... I lie there, remembering how I got here. It seems that a whole life has passed ... We flew on the plane with Taras Pozdny, the owner of the Couloir mountain club and the channel of the same name on YouTube.
Hello everyone! In Nepal, you usually meet cool guys who are sick of the mountains. Yesterday we flew with Taras Pozdny, he has a channel of the same name on YouTube. Subscribe! He will go to Lhotse soon, it will be interesting. Hello everyone! I would be grateful for your support. Here we finally met with Dima in Nepal in reality.
And then usually on Facebook, you come to Nepal, and all the people who love the mountains come here . Here you are already getting to know each other live. Follow the news! All Nepal! Day In Kathmandu flew by quickly, as I have already talked about. In the morning I had tickets for the very first flight at 6:15.
Why is it so early - I always try to take on the first flights, because the weather is usually good in the morning, then the sky over Lukla can be overcast. In order not to repeat the three-day hovering at the airport 10 years ago, I buy early tickets. The airport is empty, compare what happened at the same time in 2011. Loading luggage, refueling ... The pilotmust kick the wheel. Departure. For some it is an
exciting moment, for some 35 minutes of fear, for me it is routine. It’s a pity that we didn’t manage to sit on the left. Although the mountains are still in the haze and there is not much to shoot. In the fall, or at the end of April, it is another matter. The planes are the same as
in 2011, they have aged only ... no renewal of the fleet is foreseen. We land, the bird blows away with the wind ... but everything is all right: people pour out onto the take-off field and start filming - we arrived, it feels better. By the way, the airport in Lukla is a unique aviation facility of its kind . It was built in 1964 with funds from the first conqueror of Everest, Edmund Hillary. The runway with a length of 527 meters is located at an angle of 12 degrees and ends in an abyss, 700 meters deep. Until 2001, the runway
was not even paved. At the exit from the airport, as usual, several porters approached and, seeing that in addition to my backpack, I was carrying a large bag, they offered their services ... I chose not a young Nepalese and gave him 200 rupees for transporting the bag to the North Face Hotel. Then you know. Well, here we are in Lukla, there is no one to the people. Arrived on the first
flight, apparently with tourists after the pandemic sparsely. The people upon arrival in Lukla are usually impressed or dumbfounded, and I was the same, this time - I was slightly dumbfounded by how my slender and, most importantly , a cheap campaign plan fell apart , but right there, thanks to chance, a new one was born - a solid one, with puja , high-altitude boots and crampons, a sleeping bag better than mine, sunglasses and other climbing paraphernalia under the porter's bed. My guide invited me to his house. It's so beautiful and cozy here. The stove is on. He's packing to go
to Amphulapche and Mera Peak now. Wish us luck! Onchhu - that was the name of my new acquaintance - showed the height of hospitality: he introduced him to his family, treated him to tea, and kindly showed his home. I gave his youngest son Lenin's head and several Lego men. Need a friend for him? Yes. Ok, just a moment.
I always take some light gifts for the kids with me to Nepal . You go to school? Yes. That's good. It's pudga? Dalbat? Dalbat. Onchhu dined thoroughly before the long journey. And we, having bought a small gas cylinder for 1000 rupees, hit the road.
In our country there is a tradition: to sit before going. In short, let's sit down before the route so that we have good luck, a good weather. Good luck, good weather. Well, let's go! That's how it worked out ... we're on the track. Harmony in the soul. I fall asleep. Wanchu doesn't snore! And in this I came across an excellent travel companion.
2021-04-29 00:54
