Teardown & Inspecting The Engine! | Franna Crane Project | Part 9

Teardown & Inspecting The Engine! | Franna Crane Project | Part 9

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how you going guys Kurtis from Cutting  Edge engineering so today we're going to   be continuing on with our Franna crane project and  for today's job we are going to be disassembling   the engine so this is a Perkins RS8 1603 engine it  is a 4-cylinder and it is turbocharged so you do   find these in a lot of different configurations  they can be a constant speed engine used in a   generator used on water pumps agricultural  equipment trucks and pretty much anything   else you need to power Perkins are a really  good quality engine they are known for their   reliability and their durability so it will  be interesting to see what we find inside so   I'm definitely not a diesel fitter by any means I  used to rebuild my own engines for my drift cars I   have worked on quite a lot of diesel engines in  dozers excavators and scrapers but I have never   pulled down a Perkins engine before so it will  be interesting to see if there are any major   differences between a Perkins to another style  of engine so the main things I'm going to be   looking looking for when I do disassemble it is  any excess wear on say bearings or piston rings   or on the pistons themselves so there wasn't  any issues with the engine actually running   it was the fuel problem that was giving us all  the problems but this engine is only supposed   to be a couple of hundred hours old the only  way we're really going to figure that out is   by opening up the engine and having a look  inside so the first thing we're going to do   I am going to remove the bell housing and the  flywheel so we can get this onto the engine stand [birds squawking ] now that we got that mounted we can put it up on the stand righto guys now that we've got the engine  mounted up on the engine stand first thing   I need to do is drain all the oil out of  it after I've drained the oil I'm going to   start removing the accessories such as the  alternator the turbocharger and anything   else that just bolts on once we've done  that we can start pulling the top off the engine now the oil's drained and out of the way I'm going to remove the alternator and now I'm going to remove the manifold and the turbo now I'm going to remove the valve cover then I'm going to remove the rockers and the push rods so just a couple of other little things to remove and then we can start unbolting the head that's really on there now we can unbolt and remove the head ooh so first impressions after removing the head we do  have moisture in number four and number one that's   quite unusual considering the engine has been  completely sealed they look to be like little   cornflakes that are growing in the piston I'm not  really sure what's going on in there I did notice   one small area of the gasket on number four  was actually pushed out as if it had been over   pressurized and the gasket had moved which may  have resulted in water and coolant getting into   number four but I didn't see any damage on the  gasket around number one cylinder so I'm not sure   why that's happenening in there but it does look  like some sort of liquid has reacted with the top   of the piston that doesn't look real good we're  not going to know the extent of the damage until   we remove the pistons out of the sleeves so we're  going to continue to pull down the rest of the motor okay jeez louise oooh homeless sit spin around oh good boy [chomp chomp] that's it it's gone [snuffles] NO [being a big baby] goodboy [chomp] yesss [sniff sniff sniff] [nom nom nom] so I'm just going to get the  rest of the coolant drained out   of the block then I can remove  the compressor and the timing cover should be able to just pull that off it's moving so it's just pushed in and  then those three bolts that hold   the idle gear on is what locks that  from spinning and oil's fed through there now that all that's off I'm going to rotate the motor on the engine stand so I can remove the sump so with the sump off I did find  that there is a lot of murky oil in there   and by murky it's not the right color for  a diesel engine to produce that color oil   unless something has actually contaminated it  and I also noticed around the oil pickup there   is a lot of debris in the strainer and some of  that debris is actually quite gritty it feels   like sand there is also some surface rust or  what looks to have been surface rust on the   balance shafts so it is highly possible  this motor might have had water in it at   some stage so now what I'm going to do I'm  going to remove the balance shafts and the   oil pump that way I'll have clear access  to remove the rod caps and pull out each piston oh put that to the side get out the next one why are they scratch going sideways they should be   they should be scratched around them cuz that's the way  that rotates why are they going across them extremely rusty nearly fell out that's what they're supposed to look like a bit of metal stuck to it  that's a bit of metal it's foreign righto so we've got all four pistons out  there is a little bit of unusual scratching   on the sides of the piston and also on the  big end bearings generally bearings you'll   find the score or the scratches go around  the bearing but these actually go across   them that's a little bit unusual I'm not sure  if that's a standard thing but I haven't seen   that before we also notice there is a little  bit of metal impregnated into number three   piston just below the top ring we won't know  if it's done any damage to the bore until we   flip the motor back over but before I  flip it over I going to pull out the crankshaft right guys so after removing all the main  caps off the crankshaft all the of them are   in pretty good shape except for number five  it does have a scratch all the way around the   crankshaft and also on the bearing I don't think  it's going to be a massive issue it's probably   something that could be linished out so now  we're going to do a quick inspection of the crankshaft so the crank is a little bit  tight to turn in the block that could just   be material inside the bearings I can't see  any more scratches it looks to be in pretty   good shape so now we can get this out of the way  and turn the motor over so we can inspect the bores [giggle] missed by that much so after having a quick look at the bores I don't  need to look very hard to see that all four of   them do have issues number one and number four  have got rust marks that go around the diameter   of the bore you can fill them with your fingernail  that's the rust line [horrible scratching sound] I'm gonna say that's from water getting in there somehow and the motor sitting without being started for a pretty good period of time number two isn't in too bad  of shape you can feel lines in that but number   three has got lines from the top all the way  to the bottom that bore was the one with the   piston that had the metal impregnated into it and  that corresponds with the scratches up and down   the bore they're too deep to be honed out that's  going to have to be oversized and also the bores   are quite glazed there is no cross-hatching left in it  and it is a silky smooth surface except for the   scratches cylinder bores should have a rough  surface in order to carry oil to lubricate the   cylinder and the piston which means the motor has  been idling for a long period of time so now that   I've stripped down the engine and had a good look  at it I do not believe this is a 400 hour old   engine this has got a lot of wear on it and there  is far too much damage that is done internally   for it to be only 400 hours old it was probably an  exchange engine they picked up from a wrecker or a   secondhand part supplier but definitely not brand new  so now that we know the condition of the engine   it sort of does change things because we were  working on a standard rebuild because now the   bores are going to have to be machined oversized  and we're going to need oversized pistons that   is going to change the overall cost of rebuilding  this motor not only that because we're not going   to be cutting corners on this project I do need  to take into account all of the other parts that   I'm going to need to buy such as an injector  pump a set of injectors and also getting the   cylinder head serviced so now I need to sit down  and work out whether it's cost effective to   rebuild this or replace it with something else  so that's as far as I can go on the engine for   now but stay tuned for the next update cuz I  got a lot more to do to that crane thanks for watching just not right guys oky doie  then um how do I start it then so righto ugh [ __ ] [ __ ] right [ __ ] need other words  so this is a 4-cylinder Turbo charged RS [giggle] now I can remove the rocker cover oh [ __ ] so now  that I've stripped down the engine and is hmmmm [ __ ] try again and start again [air compressor] [ __ ] off train [ __ ] off train [phone ringing] moshi moshi [Karen] [gasp] jeez louise ugh not that strong [giggle] my god of course of course they're a different size course they're not [giggle] [Laughter] [Karen] one out of fifty finally got the right one [Laughter] [Karen] what the F is going on there I don't know [Karen] it's made muesli and it has started to grow some sort of white  white [porridge hehe] white powder don't touch it so now I need to sit down and work out whether it's cost effective to rebuild this or replace it with something else   [giggle] [Karen] no hints what Kurtis would prefer [Karen] that was the Crocodile [Homey destruction mode on] oh my God what are you doing [snort snuffles] hang on aye you little bugger [grunts] SIT come on let's go [disney princess arrives] [chirp chirp] [squawk] oh [chirp chirp] hoppity hop hop [giggle] their little hops are so cute [chattering] [more chatter] here Karen [giggle] what was that [chirp]

2023-11-24 17:05

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