Fujifilm X100VI: Features, Improvements and Performance
[Music] and here we have the new Fujifilm x16 and today I'm going to tell you all about [Music] it hi everyone and welcome to palat well it just happened Fuji filmed just an ounc the brand new x16 camera I had the opportunity to review its features test out its ergonomics image quality and shooting capabilities the model that I used was a pre-production unit and what this means is that it wasn't the final production release of the camera so keep that in mind the x16 is if you haven't guessed it the sixth version of the camera and it comes in both black and silver options the most significant change over the old version is the brand new 40.2 megapixel xtran cosos 5 HR sensor and fifth generation xpressor both of these had previously been introduced with the xt5 and the xh2 you can now shoot up to a 7,728 x 5,152 pixel image which is exactly the same resolution as the xt5 the camera's autof Focus algorithm has been updated with AI technology this is just a fancy way of saying that the camera now includes subject detection like the recent XT and xh cameras and the camera can now detect animals Birds cars motorcycles bicycles airplanes trains insects and drones oh and the subject detection also has tracking autofocus for video shooting as well speaking of video the camera is now powerful enough to shoot up to 6.2k 30p resolution video that does come with a slight crop the processor also allows for the brand new reala Ace film simulation to be included with the camera this means that there are now a total of 20 film simulations in that camera so taking the camera out of the box the first thing that struck me even before the camera itself was the build quality of the lens cap of all things it's not a little piece of plastic at all okay it connects very nicely with a firm but solid grip to the camera's lens and you absolutely would not need to worry about it accidentally falling off in a camera bag or wherever also included in the box is a single NP w126s battery and a USB type- C to a cable now there is no charger included with the cable so you're going to need to plug it into your own usba charger like I did here and you also get the usual Fujifilm camera strap and a little plastic cover that goes over the hot shoe Mount but have a look at this camera the anodized pressed aluminum camera body has a very solid highquality compact feel to it it is heavier than the original x100v in fact it is 43 G heavier which brings the total weight of the new camera which includes the battery and the memory card to 521 G the height of the camera is still the same 74.8 mm and the width is 128 mm exactly like the X100 V now what's slightly different is the depth of the camera the new camera is 2 mm deeper which brings the total to 55.3 mm this was obviously done to accommodate the brand new Ibis unit and the 23 mm focal length is equivalent to 35 mm in 35 mm format it has a minimum Focus distance of 10 cm and I found that figure to be absolutely accurate and spot-on in my testing like its predecessor the lens contains its own built-in ND filter which you can now use for video shooting the aperture range on the lens is F16 to F2 and the a position on the ring has no lock button for it the ring itself makes a fairly loud clicking sound and there are two protruding rings on the side of the aperture ring and I love that because the focusing ring is so close to the aperture ring but with them included it makes it very easy for your thumb and forefinger to quickly locate and turn it and speaking of the focus ring it's not just a focus ring it also acts as a control ring which you can customize what it'll do when you actually turn it by default the ring controls the digital teleconverter and speaking of teleconverters the lens will also work with the optional telecon converter and wide conversion lens accessories as well also on the front of the camera there's the viewfinder a built-in flash unit and a switch that contains both a button as well as a selector switch that controls the electrical to Optical viewfinder switching both both of them can be customized but the selector switch can only be customized when it's rotated there's also a front command dial which can be pressed inward just like a button the back of the camera contains your diopter dial next to the viewfinder now I found that I had to actually turn that diopter dial all the way in One Direction as far as it would go either my eyes are getting crappier and worse or that diopter dial is not as powerful as the one on the xt5 camera it's probably my eyes next to the electronic viewfinder there's also the sensor that tells the camera when you're looking through the viewfinder you've got two buttons and a command dial going across the top area right here the command dial can be pressed in just like a button and both the button and the command dial can also be customized with a function setting you also have a joystick a menu okay button a playback button and a disp back button that also serves as your Bluetooth control and of course we have the 3-in tilting 1.62 million dot LCD touchscreen with a 32 aspect ratio it pulls out from the left side Notch and the screen itself tilts further off the back of the body down to 45° 15° more than the screen on the x100v I love the tilt screen on the x16 you can quickly get to both high and low angles and it's a screen that deserves to have photography first stamped right on it looking now at the top of of the camera you've got a hot shoe mount a combined shutter speed and ISO dial an onoff switch an exposure compensation dial and another customizable function button the range of the mechanical shutter is 15 minutes to/ 14,000 of a second the shutter on the camera is a leaf shutter this means that you do not have to worry about a flash sink speed if you switch the camera over to electronic shutter you can shoot with a shutter range from 15 minutes to 1 180,000 of a second also in your menu there's a shutter count option something you should be aware of regarding this shutter count feature is that there are other actions that you can take on the camera that will increase the shutter count these would be things like turning the camera off or changing the viewfinder display or going into playback mode those would also activate the shutter mechanism and increase the shutter count and there's this gap between the/ 14000 shutter speed setting and the automatic setting which I actually really liked to set your ISO you just pull the entire dial up and then rotate the native ISO range on this camera is now ISO 125 that goes all the way up to 12,800 once you choose your native ISO value push the dial back down and you see right here you've got two white indicators showing where each of these settings are currently set ISO and shutter speed also you can choose an extended ISO value that goes all the way down to ISO 64 and and all the way up to ISO 51,200 there is also one other ISO improvement over the previous generation x100v and that is the minimum shutter speed in auto ISO in the previous camera model if you were editing one of your automatic ISO options the fastest shutter speed that the camera would allow was 1500th of a second that's it you could not choose a value faster than that for auto ISO which doesn't do much good if you're trying to shoot um I don't know a a bolt of lightning because at 1500th of a second it's just impossible well we have very good news that minimum shutter speed restriction has now been increased to 12,000th of a second the exposure compensation dial is very similar to the one that's found on XT cameras but it's a bit smaller the custom button is very well positioned next to the combined shutter release and onoff switch I found that there was sufficient room for my finger to manipulate between the two controls and I really like the room and the layout and the positioning of the controls on this camera I was actually surprised because I thought this was going to be this tiny little compact thing but there's actually plenty of room to maneuver around the various controls on the left side of the camera you have your focus mode switch with single continuous and manual focus they made it a raised switch which was really good because you can easily figure it out by just feeling it and not having to look at it and the right side of the camera has a non- removable plastic door that provides access to a 2.5 mm Port which
is a combination mic and remote release Port keep in mind that this microphone Port is the smaller 2.5mm size and not the more common 3.5 mm size that you will see on many other Fujifilm cameras below it is a USBC connector that's used for charging the camera's battery plugging it into a computer and using it as a webcam and so forth and below that is a micro HDMI port the bottom of the camera has a slightly more rounded shape to it compared with the older x100v it has a 1/4in tripod mount which has been moved slightly more forward compared with the earlier model of the camera there's a plastic door that opens up to where you store the battery and the SD card it takes the exact same NP w126s battery as the x100v xt2 and xt3 cameras I don't think they could have tried using the larger npw 235 battery because that would have probably made the X100 six's body considerably thicker remember that with this model they had to fit an entire Ibis unit inside of it as well you can now get up to 450 shots using the optical viewfinder mode and this is an increase from the original 420 shots that you got from the older x100v above the battery is the SD card slot the camera has a single SD card slot with support for UHS 1 SD card transfer rates you see there's this little removable rubber section where it can be sort of slid to the side to allow a cord to pass through and that's used for the installation of a dummy battery there's two observations I want to point out right now at this point in the video regarding the ergonomics we've discussed so far the first is having the SD card slot inside the battery slot instead of on the side of the camera changing out your SD card is is going to be more timec consuming if you've got say the camera mounted on a tripod or mounted on a gimbal or whatever and that's because the bottom tripod hole and the position of the battery door you need to take the camera off the tripod or the slider or the gimbal to remove any kind of mounting plate that might be attached to the bottom before you can fully open the battery door and secondly regarding ergonomics having the HDMI mic and USB ports all on the same side where you are holding on to the grip of the camera may be difficult you know if you've got the camera plugged into USB power connected to an external monitor or perhaps both and you're wanting to handhold it right because all of that is on the same side of the camera now maybe this would affect exactly no one on planet Earth except for me but I wanted to bring it up to you nevertheless now a significant part of the x16 is its hybrid viewfinder many of its features are the same as on the previous x100v camera in addition to the LCD screen that's on the back of the camera you have a viewfinder that can give you three distinct modes first you can use it as a regular electronic viewfinder just like the ones that you'll see on many Fujifilm cameras second you can switch it over to use as an optical viewfinder when you do that you'll see an electronic settings overlay on the rang finder View and third you can enable quite a unique feature called the electronic rangefinder which combines these two and it inserts a picture in picture this could be a focus check or an entire frame or even a photo review playback once you've taken the shot this was one item I wanted to test out way more thoroughly but I literally ran out of time before I had to return the camera to Fujifilm another very new significant feature that's been added is a five AIS inbody image stabilization system otherwise known as Ibis I am going to show you how performs for both Stills and videos so stick around and keep watching the x16 now has a fully built-in frame.io camera to Cloud technology what this means is that you can connect the camera wirelessly to Wi-Fi and then use your frame.io account to upload photos and videos right as soon as you shoot them you can do it right from inside built into the camera there is also full support to use the camera as a web cam at up to 4K 60p I'll tell you how that turned out later on there's other features things like bracketing all the different options for you know toy camera and filters and things like that I am not going to go through every single setting in that drive menu because this video is actually supposed to be just a first look at the camera so let's now talk about image quality dynamic range film simulations and ISO please remember that I am working off a pre-production version of the camera which of course means that they are pre-prod ction versions of the raw files for those of you who have never used a Fujifilm sensor Beyond say 26 megapixels it's such an awesome benefit to be able to crop into subjects that are further away and not lose as much image resolution in fact I think it can actually contribute to changing a bit how you actually shoot I've been taking more of a yeah I'll just step back a little bit here and take the shot not worry about yeah whatever and then when I get in post- production it's like okay I'll crop where I want I'm not saying that it makes me you know lazier it just gives me more options of course with more pixels comes larger file sizes the highest quality jpeg image that you can get on the x16 will result in a 20 megabyte file size and the camera also gives you the option to choose the high efficiency image file instead of jpeg if you do that your file size will be reduced to about 14 megabytes and you get a 10bit file however the hgif format is not supported many applications and I would not recommend using it regularly for now if you set your raw file output to uncompressed you will get the largest file the camera produces which is around 85 mbes now if you set it to lossless compressed you will get the same exact quality but your file size is now reduced down to about half at 43 mbes and finally if you set it to compressed which I don't recommend doing for most Fujifilm users you will get a file size of 28 mbes so in shooting with this camera I couldn't help but notice just how much I love the 23 mm focal length and with a 40 megapixel sensor you can crop in obviously and you have just that little bit of extra room that that 23 gives you and the new reala ace film simulation it's a little less saturated than Prova a little more saturated than classic Chrome and it has an edgier tonality than Pro negative high and what I tend to really love about it is how it handles skin tones under normal lighting conditions I actually think that it renders skin tones among the best of the Fujifilm film simulations however it's not always for every situation for example I really wasn't that thrilled with it in this shot well here's reala Ace and here is Prova and here's Pro negative high and generally what I found is reala Ace does a better job with skin tones whereas say Prova does a better job with fur tones my point being is that there are now 20 film simulations in the camera so there's something for everyone let's take a look now at the 23mm fixed length lens and see how it performs in the center and in the edges with different apertures here we are at f2 and right off the bat you can see there's vignetting you see it right here right here when I jump to f2.8 Boom the vignetting goes away keep in mind that I am looking at raw files now if I look at the straight out of camera jpeg in Capture One have a look at this here's the Raw in capture one here's the jpeg in capture one with no adjustments made raw jpeg raw jpeg so right off the bat it's corrected in capture one if we jump into the center at f2 here we're at 100% let's go to 200 there's a little bit of softness for sure and some minor chromatic aberration going on however this can easily be adjusted in programs like Capture One or Lightroom and you can just go right from this to this same image just with a few seconds of adjustment let's look at the corner and although there's the vignetting going on the corner is quite sharp as soon as we jump to f2.8 Bam the vignetting is gone going into the center 200% definitely starting to look better there going to the corner nice and sharp now we're at F4 and it looks great in the center at F4 and so do the corners here's f5.6 at
200% I mean it looks great Center to Corners all over now we're down to f8 and it's starting to get a bit soft however the corners are still looking good jumping to f11 zooming into the center and no doubt about it it is noticeably soft however the corners although just starting to get a little bit soft still very good now when we jump to F-16 and zoom into the center if you don't notice that this is definitely soft in the center well you need to get your eyes examined however when we look at the corners of the image at F-16 they look very good and better than a number of lenses that I've examined over the past few years so the number one thing you should know about this lens and this focal length is remember that if you put this thing in F2 you do not have a lot of depth of field it's going to be beautiful if you nail it right but it can be problematic if you're not paying attention or if you're sticking the lens in F2 and relying only on autofocus all the time you see what I mean I mean there's not much here I ran into this issue right here with F2 I want to see Pippen's eyes and Pippen's nose the problem was I had the lens in F2 and the camera correctly focused on the eyes which it should have in autofocus face eye autodetect which I had it on now keep in mind I also shot this to test out higher isos so it's at 6,400 we'll get to ISO in a bit the bottom line is be careful when you're shooting at f2 with this lens it is easy to accidentally not quite get everything in focus and that is not the fault of the lens but talking about background have a look at this right here we're at f2 and I just love the subject isolation and you can see as we stop down the lens here we are at F4 f5.6 f8 and F16 it is so awesome to be able to go from this to this even just taking a quick shot of a handheld remote controller just like this throwing it into F2 I love what it does to the bokeh in the back even going just from the middle range at f5.6 down to F2 let's talk about ISO performance in low light so taking a look at the raw files from the camera there is a smidgen more noise but I don't even know if you can see it on YouTube but we jumped from 400 to 1,000 and these look really similar and zooming in to 100% you can see 1,600 ISO on the left 2500 ISO on the right and to be honest with you I'm not seeing much difference between these two going into the top darker area of the image right here there's a little bit more grain right here but it's you got to really look for it so now comparing 1600 to 4,000 and jumping into 200% yeah definitely you can see the noise going into another area of the image toward the back and it becomes more noticeable for sure at 4,000 ISO let's compare it now to 6,400 ISO and yeah there's definitely a little noise but I would think there'd be a bit more looking up here and the funny thing is if I told you to pick between these two you know which one has higher ISO no doubt about it you would say the one on the right but would you say that it's as high as 6400 and I think that that's what's important here all right so now we're jumping to ISO 8000 getting a little nuts here but let's take a look and areas around the shadows and where they meet the midtones you can definitely see some of that noise now we're comparing it to 10,000 ISO jumping into 100% and we're definitely looking at a much grainier image but at 10,000 ISO and now we're looking at it with the highest native ISO on the camera 12,800 and yeah when you get up this High it really does affect the quality of the image and you start to see that noise appear in color areas as well still though pulling back a bit it looks okay halfway decent at 12,800 ISO we were just looking at the unedited raw files in capture 1 but if we take a look at the unedited straight outof camera jpegs here we are at600 ISO compared to 6400 now clearly there's been a little bit of cleaning up that's been done and I know that when I shot these I did not have the camera set to any kind of value for noise reduction I mean look at this dropping the straight out of camera jpegs right into capture one600 versus 64 00 ISO I mean these are pretty much identical look at that and if we compare it to 8,000 ISO I mean seriously these straight out of camera jpegs are very similar and if I jump all the way to 12,800 again I finally see some noise difference between the two but it's not a lot of noise again these are straight out of camera jpegs dropped into capture one I made no adjustments to them whatsoever now I know that sometimes when you're importing jpegs into capture 1 capture one will do a little trickery behind the scenes but have a look at this this is my noise reduction and sharpening panels okay and yeah it looks like maybe there was some default settings going on but you know what let's drop these down to zero everything down it still looks good so yes I am impressed with the camera's handling of higher isos with low light or ISO or as Fujifilm calls it sensitivity if you go up to 12,800 yes it's grainier but it's not horrible grainier let's now look at the traditional mess and ugliness otherwise known as extended ISO so here we are with ISO 25,800 on the left and ISO 51,200 on the right forget the 51,000 one that just looks horrible I mean I guess if you have no choice but to use it nevertheless with this camera I'm noticing overall less color noise less color shifting and less overall muddiness when you crank it up to these ridiculous extended ISO values compared to say the the xt3 or the xt4 for those of you that don't understand the difference between native ISO and extended ISO please go watch my video on ISO just go to the search box type in pal detect ISO and you'll be on your way now there's another feature that's built into the camera that I wanted to also test out and that is called the digital telecon converter so right off the bat if you are shooting with the digital telecon converter and you're shooting in both JPEG and RAW your raw files will not have the telecon version applied to it so for example this is the raw file right here and here's the same jpeg for the same shot but with the 70 mm digital teleconverter applied to it so how does the quality of using the digital teleconverter stack up against simply zooming in in post-production so here are the three images right here this shot has no teleconverter applied whatsoever this has the 50 and this has the 70 so let's zoom into 100% so what I'll do is zoom in on the other two to match the 70 so we can take a look exactly at the performance now with the three of them locked into the same position I'm going to zoom in even further and I got to tell you I am not seeing much difference here and that says a lot about the digital teleconverter feature on the camera so I can tell you that this digital telecon converter shows really not much if any difference when a JPEG is dropped into a program like capture 1 and you zoom into each one to roughly the same place I mean look at that moving on let's talk about dynamic range when it comes to dynamic range and then being a ble to take the raw files bring them into an editor like this make some adjustments and see what you can recover from the shadows and pull back from the highlights I was very impressed with the X100 6's performance let's take a look here's a raw file shot at ISO 500 look at our histogram okay when you see a histogram that's like flat and then on each side you know you've got a high dynamic range image let's start with the highlights have a look at this area right here zooming in it's pretty washed out I'm now going to grab my highlight slider and and drag it all the way down look at that if I zoom in look at the difference between this and this what I particularly like about it is how the background was brought back and still has that pleasing kind of bokeh ball look to it now we're going to adjust the opposite the shadows and bring those up here we go Shadow slider all the way up except you don't always want to go all the way up I'm going to bring it down just a tad and maybe I'll play around with the Luma curve just like that here's before and after before after zooming in and going to a darker area of the image yeah you can see some grain so yes some noise is being introduced when I brought back those shadows and probably the worst of it may be right here but I am zoomed in at 200% if I go back and look at kind of the overall picture to go from this to this is really nice let's see how the lowest native ISO handles this dropping down those highlights bringing up the Shadows here's before here's after before after so if I now zoom in 400% I am seeing some noise but I'm not seeing a lot camera does a great job with this now a feature that's on the camera that I don't think it does as good a job as you could is the HDR feature this is an example of a scene that could use a little HDR Tender Love so I put the camera in the HDR function and I took a shot and this is what I got and it is better I guess you can see that some of the sky has been brought back for sure look at that and look at the ripples on the water so the camera's processing of this did help looking at the trees though it didn't really do a whole lot so now we're going to get rid of all this AI this computer stuff and we're going to use something called our brains so starting with that original raw file I'm going to bring those highlights down boom all the way down maybe kick up the Shadows just a little bit drop down some of the brightness play around with the Luma curve I love saying that play around with the Luma curve makes me sound really intelligent and here we are with our version of HDR versus the camera's version our version is brighter right here we did a better job with the sky you see that our trees are better look you can even see what's on the bark on our version so don't worry about this whole AI computer stuff okay we're still doing a better job let's now talk about a major feature of the camera and that is the inbody image stabilization otherwise known as Ibis Ibis is a five axis in body stabilization system that claims to give you up to six stops of image stabilization it controls camera Shake that's what Ibis does but if you put it in 1/30th of a second because you think oh I've got Ibis well good for you except when you're trying to photograph somebody running it's going to be blurry and no your Ibis is not broken remember Ibis only helps out when it comes to camera shape that's it so for these next set of shots I am going to be handholding the camera just like this I didn't want to hold it really steady just hold it like you would casually to see how Ibis would handle that here we are handheld at 130th of a second zooming in to 100% it looks good next I'm going to drop my shutter speed down to 1 15th of a second and I'm seeing almost no difference with this as well dropping down now to 1/8 of a second still handheld I seeing almost no difference with this as well now we're going to try a quarter of a second handheld okay I'm starting to see a tad bit of motion blur when I'm zoomed in to 100% you can see it right here next handholding the camera again at half a second and it looks like at half a second we're starting to finally see that there's some camera Shake blur so I ran a lot more test than this and I have to tell you I think that this camera the x16 handles Ibis when it comes to still shooting and being able to you know fix that camera Shake I think it handles it better than the xt5 one of the areas where Ibis really shines and actually is the most useful for on the x16 and that is shooting video have a look at this right here the footage on the left was shot with Ibis completely off the footage on the right I simply enabled Ibis and nothing else in this next example I've also enabled Digital Image stabilization otherwise known as disis in the camera menu you will get an additional crop factor and basically the difference between regular Ibis and dis is that regular old Ibis is from the sensor the physical movement of the sensor just like it is when you're taking still photos but when you enable dis the camera is actually adding in the stabilization to the footage after you've shot it it's acting like basically a video editor okay and it's not quite the same thing I usually just enable Ibis and in the case of my testing with the x16 that's exactly what I did and what I would recommend especially if you're just starting out there is also another stabilization feature with this camera that you need to know about and that is called is mode boost it's located in the menu right below Ibis so if you're just filming something and you're standing still think of it as a tripod that is when you want to enable is mode boost you do not want to enable boost mode if you're panning like this okay the way this is set up can be confusing for people because when you first look at it right when you jump into the menu just like that for the first time and you see it it says suitable for shooting with panning tilting and tracking subjects so that's what you think oh great well I'm going to be panning I'm going to go ahead and enable is mode boost no because watch this if you go to on look at how the menu changes suitable for static handheld shooting now one thing that I wanted to tell you about the Ibis unit on this camera is that yes you get up to six stops of Ibis but that applies only if you're using either the LCD screen or the electronic viewfinder if you're using the optical viewfinder you will only get 5 and 1 12 stops and the reason for this is that when you are using the optical viewfinder the readout speed on the camera sensor will slow down just slightly to help the camera conserve power now the X100 6 has a number of continuous shooting options on the front of the camera you can access all of the burst modes and a number of other features by using the drive button you can shoot up to 11 frames per second if you're using the mechanical shutter if you switch it over to electronic shutter you can shoot up to 20 frames per second but that does come with a crop factor as far as high spe spe shooting and filling the buffer is concerned if you're coming from a Fujifilm camera like the xt5 which supports the uh2 SD card speeds you will definitely notice that the X100 6's camera buffer will fill up a lot faster so here I set the camera to shoot in both JPEG and RAW and I set the raw format to uncompressed I set the burst mode to 11 frames and here we go now let's try it where we set the camera to only shoot jpegs at the highest jpeg quality you are not going to get the kind of burst shooting that you would get on a camera like the xt5 and now we come to the part of the video where we're going to talk about autofocus just like the XT 5 the x16 has the same completely revised autofocus system that incorporates both the more powerful fifth generation XTR processor as well as an autofocus prediction algorithm and I'm hesitant to say this because I did only have the camera for a week but I think face eye autod detect on the x16 is better than on the xt5 but please keep something in mind whenever you're dealing with autofocus it's not just about the camera and the processor the type of lens that you're using right that has a huge impact on autofocus for the camera the only lens that I was able to test out was the 23mm that came with a camera I'm just saying that with the 23mm lens on the x16 I found that autofocus particularly face eye autod detect to be wonderful so I ran it through a number of tests starting with both single point and Zone continuous autofocus and have a look right here it nailed almost every single shot if we switch over to a lowlight situation notice how the camera struggles a little bit in trying to acquire focus and I noticed that when I combine subject detection with wide tracking it handled a subject moving very quickly and almost directly toward the camera now autofocus for video has a number of new features for this camera first of all you have much better subject tracking face eye autod detect and that sort of thing and you also have touch tracking autofocus where you're using the LCD screen to tap and tell your camera exactly which subject you want it to track when you're shooting people putting the camera into face eye autodetect autofocus is absolutely outstanding this was the first time when I was running right toward the camera that literally in almost every single shot the camera nailed the focus I also tested this camera with fast moving subjects with its AI algorithm it kept up with the cars it got the shots in Focus I've taken this exact same test standing in the exact same spot with the xt4 and the xt5 and this camera did it better what I did test pretty much put it on par with the xt5 let's talk about video now which continues to become more popular for photographers and creators now I'm not going to go through every single video combination and spec and codec and I'm just not in fact there needs to be a warning message that says you know do not read this while operating heavy machinery what I will do though is I will cover the most significant important features that you need to know at the very top of the list the x16 can now shoot 6.2k 30p 10bit video at 200 megabits per second be aware however that this is not open gate there is a crop factor if you shoot at that resolution and that 6K 10bit 422 format can be recorded internally on the SD card and like the xt5 it also shoots in 4k up to 60p and 1080 up to 2 40p among the video options and combinations you can shoot in 42210 bit as well as in both F log and F log 2 and there's also a special version of 4K called 4K HQ high quality and unlike regular 4K 4K HQ does have crop factor just like the 6.2k and there's a very
good reason for that all 4K HQ really is is the camera shooting in 6.2k and then downsampling that video into 4K for you with the idea that it's going to be better quality so right here on the left side I've got 6.2k and on the right side I've got regular 4K and as you can see the 6.2k resolution does bring out more detail now check out 4K HQ compared to 6.2k I'm not seeing a huge amount of difference but of course you are giving up something with 4K HQ namely the crop factor of 1.3 and and also the fact that you cannot shoot at up to 60 frames per second you got to stay at 30 or below let's now check what higher ISO values does to video here's what 2,000 ISO looks like and here is 6400 ISO and here it is at 10,000 ISO another great tool that the camera has that you can use with video is the built-in ND filter this ND filter is not a digitally or artificially created ND filter rather this is the real thing it is an actual filter that when you enable it pops out in front of the path where the light comes through the lens and before it hits the camera sensor it's a real Endy filter and it's a four stop filter so you can't change the number of stops it's not a variable filter and the reason why obviously is because it is a real piece of Hardware built into the lens you can also shoot in slower slow motion up to 1080 HD at 240p and this is what it looks like right here with those exact settings [Music] there is something else that I have not seen before on a Fujifilm camera when you shoot in regular 24 30 or 60 frames per second you know normal video you've got this red record frame that lights up however if you set the camera to record in this special slow motion mode that I just discussed the screen now switches to a turquoise border so that you immediately Ely know what video mode that you're using that is a very nice touch this camera also introduces a brand new manual focus assist feature called Focus map and this is for video you can choose either color or monochrome when you enable this it runs in real time while you're shooting any areas that are out of focus behind the focal plane are represented by these blue squares if you see orange squares well then that's the area that is in front of the frame and the parts of the scene that are green squares are all within the same field of focus this is another feature I wish I had had more time to play with but at least you know it's there there is one video use that I don't think this camera would be very good at and that is vlogging let me show you exactly what that looks and sounds like so here I am testing out the vlogging capability of the camera I am using the onboard microphone this is what it sounds like this is what it looks like I have Digital Image stabilization turned on I'm at f2 148 of a second I'm shooting in 4k at 24 frames per second and I have auto ISO and because there is no flipar around screen which is absolutely critical for vlogging I cannot recommend the x16 as a vlogging camera now as far as using it as a webcam yeah it works pretty well for that and I did test that out as well you go into the connection settings of the camera and make sure that you choose USB web Cam and that's it you don't need any special Fuji software or some yet another app to install to make this work just plug your camera into your computer using the included USBC to a cable and as soon as you open a program like Zoom you can choose your Fuji webcam as the source and you can also use the camera's microphone or built-in external microphone as the audio Choice here's the difference between a common 1080p Logitech webcam and the x16 camera and you can also change some settings on the camera and they will be reflected in the webcam program like Zoom here I've changed my film simulation to acros because you really do need that awesome acros black and white look for Zoom we are now at the portion of the video that I worry about the most when I make these videos and that is to share with you my final thoughts and recommendations on this camera this is a very powerful and capable camera for both Stills and video but as I was testing the camera I definitely noticed that I needed to replace the battery twice as often as I did with my xt5 this is a smaller battery and it has less power and it does need to charge more so keep that in mind with regard to video Fuji does indicate that you can shoot 4K 60 frames per second video up to about 45 minutes using this battery and for 6K video which is limited at 30 frames per second it's the same amount of time 45 minutes so should you get one of these cameras well that all depends on where you're coming from if you already own an xt5 that's a hard decision and I would say think about it carefully because basically the x16 is pretty much an xt5 in terms of what it can do but with a very different form factor what if you already own the original X100 V predecessor that's a tough one for me to answer because I never owned one and to be honest with you I never used the X100 V you could make a very good argument in getting one because of the fact that the autofocus is greatly improved and it has an Ibis unit which if you're shooting video is a big benefit for the camera and of course you need to ask yourself if you need that extra 40 megapixel sensor size or not those are ultimately decisions that only you can make so what about people who are brand new to Fujifilm and are coming from other camera brands well it comes down to the lens to be honest with you because if you're used to interchangeable lenses and now you're going to a fixed lens camera you better know what you're doing with that so it could be a huge benefit and there's a lot of reasons to limit and restrict yourself to only one lens for sure but there's also an equal number of valid reasons why you would need to be able to have an interchangeable lens system if you are brand new to Photography in general and I mean brand new should you get the X100 six camera I don't think so I have two reasons why there is no better way for someone beginning photography and wanting to learn all about the exposure triangle than having a camera where you have a dedicated dial for each one of those settings and because the xt5 and the x16 are so similar I would say go with the xt5 and the second reason is very simple taking a lens off right and changing it out for a different focal length or a zoom or a wide angle even if you can't afford these lenses you could certainly rent some of them and practice with them so having those two options I think is very important that being said with a camera like the x16 you can certainly fall in love with the feel and the look of it and if you already have then just get it so I want to end this video by telling you that when Fujifilm contacted me and asked if I wanted to take a look at the x16 I almost said no I prefer being able to swap out the lenses anytime I want I like larger cameras like the gfx much more than I like these little small compact cameras but I said okay and I spent the last week using and testing every part of that camera I love everything about it and yeah although the camera is smaller than what I'm used to it felt great in my hands and the camera ended up doing something that I didn't expect it made me want to take more more photos that 23 mm lens focal length that was combined with the real Ace film Sim and that 40 megapix sensor that entire combination right there it just felt like the perfect package for me it was tough returning it back to Fuji when I was done testing but it was a really enjoyable experience and it actually reminded me of just how special and how unique it can be to have a personal connection with the camera that you entrust to record your work your Creative Vision and most importantly your life well thank you so much for watching and I really hope you found the video helpful or at least entertaining and if you did be sure to give it the like And subscribe I will see you again in a new video very soon take care I am dream I've got a dream they can change their minds but they can't change me I've got a dream I've got a dream
2024-02-29 10:02
