Drafting and Making a Late Victorian Waistcoat (1895)

Drafting and Making a Late Victorian Waistcoat (1895)

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Hello good day ok so today we're not going to bother with lengthy, introductions, instead, today I shall just provide you with the obvious, knowledge that today I shall be attempting to draft and reconstruct. An 1890s, waistcoat, according to the instructions, outlined in the 1895. Keystone, guide to jacket, and dress cutting which I shall link down below if you wish to follow along at home although I must continually, remind the internet that I am NOT in the business of providing tutorials, as believe it or not there is no such thing as truth in this murky and uncertain, business of history, anyway. Okay, so for the pattern for this I am going back to my old friend mr. Keystone, I don't think that's actually his real name I am maybe a little, bit daunted by this this is slightly, more complicated than a skirt it's a lot less straight, lines and a lot more things that actually need to fit in certain places there are lots, of instructions so, hopefully, I will just be able to follow these step-by-step, draw, the appropriate lines, and get something that's sort of like a waistcoat, it's probably, easier said than done but we're gonna give it a go so these instructions, are to draft something sort of akin to this which, will translate into this, set of given measurements, the waist size is fine for me it matches my waist size which is really cool I have the sense that it's going to be a little bit short waisted because I'm, a little bit longer, waisted, I've got a 36, inch bust even. With the padding on the corset I'm not a 36, inch bust so this, is going to be an adventure these are technically. Than the ideal late 19th century measurements, so what I think I'm going to do is I'm not going to alter the pattern at all obviously, if this pattern would come out too small it, would be something that I would have to probably think, about doing alterations, for whilst I'm doing this I think I should mention that this, this drafting, system this book in the beginning he has this whole sort of series of drafting systems for essentially, a sloper for the the, upper body the waist and he goes through and sort of illustrates, the drafting system for all body types whether, you are thin whether you are larger, whether you are stooping, so all different sorts of postures, and body types so, don't be discouraged if you are not this, Victorian, measure this is just I guess the sort of standard and of course he also advises, you know for larger, figures, you put more darts, in different places so so, there are sort, of options, for different body types out there okay, so this draft is proving a little bit more complicated only because he's. Not necessary. Really giving you every. Single instruction, so I think there's going to be a little bit of conjecturing, going on here, on my part what I'm just looking at right now is I'm I'm, working on this bit here I don't know if this is gonna make any sense to you here, since you're not technically, following, along step-by-step but essentially he's not really giving me these distances. To this point so I'm not entirely sure he's telling me to round off the arms i but i don't know where it's supposed to come up to so, i guess this is something that I'm going to just make up I went, back and I had a look because in the beginning of the book there is also a, series of drafts, again like I said four other four, basic, standard, wastes so I thought maybe it's just a super basic thing that he addressed in the beginning but. No so, yeah. This is something that I'm just gonna, have to make up in theory, this distance. From, here to here should, be oh the. Outside, shoulder which maybe I can actually take, the measurement for okay, I'm getting a rough estimate, of 5 inches doing, this on myself so I'm not entirely sure how accurate that is if this is 5 inches.

That. Would put point 3 around. Here, which actually looks about right. We're gonna go ahead with that which. Means that this point should, match up round. This, way, maybe, oh, he has me do X first, which looks about halfway between so, here's this point I, mean. There will be mock-ups we shall see how this goes. Okay, so this is very nonlinear. And very confusing but now he's having me do this whole bit up here where we figure this out, which doesn't really make sense because he wanted me to draw this arms, eye thing, way, before, and I didn't know what points to connect to them too which is strange, but I guess we'll now take care of this and then go, back and see if this is correct I didn't say this earlier but some point again later on he, had me go in and then put this point 12 here so I had to move this arms eye from because I had an ending sort, of round here and then it ended up having me put point, 12 here, so I had to move it over a little bit so yeah it's a little bit out of order so if you are attempting this pattern or if you were attempting other Keystone patterns that maybe, are also written like this we will obviously see, what the overcoat has to do but this skirt was fairly straightforward none, of all this nonlinear, nonsense but yes so if you are attempting a Keystone pattern and you, are confused. Because you are wondering, how you get a point out of nowhere it's, probably, somewhere later in the instructions, okay so according, to the instructions, I did exactly. What I was supposed to do so yay for figuring, things out in unconventional, ways, but. Also yay, for instructions, okay so here is why I am so far I've got the actual waist. Part, drafted, all the darts in all the actual pieces present, what I haven't done is I have not yet put the collar bitch on that, is actually, on the diagram on the other side of this page that I was referencing and I didn't see it so. I was like where's the collar there is a whole other page in the book full of different collar lapel, options, so, I thought I would have to go back and you know look at that print that out because I hadn't done so but it turns out that the collar instructions, are just right here so I'm going to go proceed and do that I'm, running out of light so I might not film it I may do it in the wee hours this evening and then come back tomorrow morning and start cutting this out so I'm going to go draft a collar and I shall see you soon okay. So I have completed the mock-up for the waistcoat I got absolutely no, footage of the editing fitting, process for this which, I kind of severely regret because I feel like well you. Know what it's always a bit of an existential crisis, with this because I thoroughly, have no clue, what I'm doing when I'm fitting these mock-ups and. In, a way I feel like it's sort of setting a bad example for people who don't necessarily have, much experience in this to sort, of see me flailing, about not, really. Knowing what I'm doing with this but at the same time I mean I guess if you don't have any clue what you're doing maybe it's good to start somewhere I don't know the point is I have completed this mock up it was a journey, obviously. It did not fit me whatsoever. In the bust in this whole top chest area and I did leave a little bit of room because I do intend to put some padding up here just in this upper shoulder. Area because that's the historical thing to do I did fit this to my waist which I ended up having to let out just a little bit I'm also not entirely sure if this is correct I ended up adding, a little gore to the hip area to give it a little bit more spring because that's what it does on me it, just made this side area sit a little bit nicer I'm quite happy with how this fits and how it sits so. After a lot of fitting. And altering, and cutting. And refitting. And altering and refitting, and altering, we are now ready, to move forth I think what I'm going to do is I'm going to go ahead and well I have to select. This all apart and get the pattern pieces and make the alterations to my actual pattern so that I can cut out this proper fitting shape so first, I need to transfer all of the alterations, I made on my mock-up to my pattern so that I can actually cut out the correct shapes this time I'm doing this by marking any changed seams then cutting the shapes apart without seam, allowance I can then lay these net muslin pieces on top of my old pattern mark the new lines then cut the pieces to shape I'm going to be making up the waistcoat out of this we'll check that you may recognize, from our garment district adventure it's also the fabric I used for the walking skirt so I'm very much looking forward to having a nice matchi Tweedy, ensemble, the pieces are laid onto the fabric warp wise I actually just came across an interesting line in Bertha banners household, sewing with home dress making where she mentioned that the warp or Salvage, length of the fabric should always be running lengthwise, in the body since it's the stronger, grain of the fabric so the selvage edge of the fabric will be running parallel, up and down the length of the waistcoat with the center front edge on the straight grain and I'm just marking everything out with some tailors chalk likewise.

The Center back is also placed on the straight grain normally, this is indeed straight, but as we are all probably well familiar with my spinal grievances, by now I had to make some minor adjustments to that center back line on the mock-up to get it to fit properly don't ask how I did this on myself there may, or may not have been witchcraft involved, I'm also cutting a facing piece for the lapel out of the wool check since, the lapel turns out words and you'll see the inside as the, outside I've gotten this pattern piece by tracing off that lapel bit from my front panel pattern and included, about the first inch of width all the way down the center front edge this will also help to strengthen the edges where the buttons and buttonholes will be and will help to finish off those front edges neatly I'm also cutting out the front panel and front facing pieces out of some tailor's canvas which will help to give the front of the waistcoat some nice structure I'm cutting out both pieces here but at this point I wasn't actually sure where and how many layers of canvas, I should be adding so, I decided, to cut it all and experiment, with it later finally, I'm also marking out the front and back pieces on this brown cotton silesia which is basically a glazed, cotton and was commonly used for waistcoat and coat linings, in the 19th century. At. Last I can now cut out all of my traced pieces. So, I have got all of my pieces cut out I have got a front, and a back of this cotton, selicia I've got a facing. And a front of this hair canvas, what, I've actually done is I've I've. Got I've gone ahead and I've cut out the full shape out of the canvas I don't need this much I really only need I mean probably just, about this facing amount, just on the front here so I will go through and trim, this off at some point I just wasn't, sure how, much I needed whilst I was cutting it so I just cut the whole thing which was probably not a very historically, accurate thing to do because they would not have wasted this much material but you know what cabbage is cool we can always use this for something else so what I will be doing is I will probably go ahead and I will trim this up to about the dart because I don't think I want to have any of this canvas adding, bulk to the waste at. This dart point so I will probably cut it to about here I don't know if I'm going to go all the way up to the dart or not I don't know yet I feel like this whole process is just me. Sort of guessing, as to what I'm doing just before I actually do it because tailoring, is a thing I have admired greatly from, a distance but have yet to actually attempt myself so I feel like a lot of these techniques are things that I know in theory or things. That I've seen done places, but have never actually implemented. Myself so this is going to be a bit of an adventure so yes definitely the beginning of a long and exciting, historical. Tailoring journey but here is where we are starting so I also have one, of every piece cut out in this will tweed, so, I've got a back I've got a facing, for the lapel and I've got the front so my first step for this is I'm going to go through and just thread mark all of these top.

Pieces Because, all of these top pieces will get inter, lined with this canvas and I will lose all of my chalk lines so what I'm going to do first is I'm just going to go through and I'm going to thread mark the outer lines as well as the darts on all of these pop pieces, and then I think we go ahead with the pad stitching, and the basting, of the interlining, into, the actual thing once, that's been done I'm starting off by getting all of the darts stitched in there obviously two on either side of the front pieces but there are also two very small darts on either side of the back so these are pinned out of both the wool layers and the lining layers been stitched. Okay. So I have just laid my canvas piece on top of the front piece which has it starts in it now just to sort of try and get a sense of vaguely, where. I want, this to go I know I cut a full piece which I don't technically. Necessarily, need and then I was hypothetically, going to chop it just right, here probably up to this first Dart however, the wall that I'm using is very, very drapey I'm not entirely sure this is going to be too light for a waistcoat, and if I should just inter line the entire thing with the canvas if that will help or, if that's just going to create too much bulk I think, it will be okay. What I think I may do is, I may chop, the canvas sort of here. And then have it come down to just the edge of this dart here, that way the front of it will be stabilized, up through you know it'll hold these darts out hopefully, a little bit and then will create less bulk over here on this waist area, so I think that is what I'm going to attempt. To do otherwise, I think this is coming together a little bit more quickly than I anticipated which, is really good so I'm gonna see how far we can get now so after pinning the Candice layer in place and then going through and basting it down doing my best to keep it held in the three-dimensional, shape it wants to live in now that the darts are in rather than forcing it to lie flat this way hopefully I don't want to sit more naturally, against the three-dimensional, shape of the body. I'm. Then. Holding these dart edges together with a herringbone, stitch or as it's referred to in ye olde 21st, century, a cross stitch. That, done I can now proceed to actually put the waistcoat together, it's only a center back seam and two side seams for both the wool and the lining layers so if this won't take a minute. I. Should. Probably have noted that when I was basting down the canvas layer earlier I did not base down the lapel area because this gets pad stitched separately, not a temporary basting, pad stitch as we've been doing thus far but a permanent, one which means that the stitches are much smaller neater, and done, in a black thread that won't be visible from the wool side of the fabric the process of pad stitching the lapel not only secures the canvas and fabric layers firmly together but allows you to carefully sculpt, the two layers into shape so that the lapel actually wants to roll back against the waistcoat instead, of flopping forward to do this I'm gently rolling the fabric around my index finger just at that brake line or at the line where the lapel edge will fold back to mold it into that turned back position, I actually had posted a picture of this on my Instagram, awhile back when I was working on it and got a couple of really interesting questions about the pad stitching process so hopefully, this answers things, a bit I actually think it's really cool how we can sort of have a bit of an interaction when I'm actually posting, the pictures in real time since it's a little bit unfortunate that with the videos you only get to respond after the project has been completed and documented.

So I guess let it be known now that I'm going to start posting some more real-time progress shots over on the Instagram and I'm going to make an effort to look at your questions or bits of intrigue in the comments so that I can properly address them in the videos because, community, and sharing, knowledge and learning stuff it's all really cool anyway. Once my lapels are all ready to go I can then go ahead and stitch together the shoulder seams as well as the little center back seam on the collar so that it becomes one continuous, piece that I can stitch down to the back neck edge of the waistcoat. And, the. Seam allowances of these little inner curves must be clipped in order for this to happen or basically, it will not cooperate I. Have. Also gone ahead and stitched the little centre back collar seam on the facing pieces so that I can now go ahead and get these attached the facing gets pinned on to the center front and the neck edges of the waistcoat with right sides together. I'm. Then. Just trimming back the seam allowances to about a quarter of an inch so that there's a bit less bulk when I turn the layers. Now. Before I put the lining in I'm just going to quickly add a bit of padding into the shoulder area so that the lining can conceal the padding and hold everything neatly into place this, is history's, great, secret, for amazing silhouettes, a bit of padding is added to that hollow bit between the shoulder and the bus to make everything sit smoothly and avoid that little crumbly spot by the shoulder if you like, most people don't naturally, have a chest shaped like this, this, is seen everywhere in the 19th century in dresses, bodice, --is coats so of course I'm really eager to experiment with this in my waistcoat endeavors, I have already roughly, determined, the shapes needed for my particular padding, requirements, in a fitting so I'm just duplicating, those shapes to put in to both sides, you'll want to use several slim layers of sheet cotton wadding and stagger, them so that the edge of the padding isn't too extreme, and noticeable from the outside this, is then pad stitched, into, place with the long stitches catching, only the canvas layer interlining, and not going through to the wool layer on the outside since, these are not temporary, stitches, and will need to be left in. With. That done I can now go ahead and get the lining in this I'm just securing, into place with lots and lots of pins to ensure that everything is positioned appropriately then, turning under the raw edges of both the lining and fabric layers on all sides the, facing pieces however fold over top of the center front edge of the lining layer.

Everything. Is then secured into place by hand with tiny felling stitches. At. This point everything is secure enough that I can go ahead and remove all of my temporary basting, stitches next, the center front and lapel edges of the waistcoat are top stitched by hand with small running stitches to ensure that the edges are held very crisp and flat and. Then. It's time for buttonholes. I seem to have forgotten to record my marking out of these but there are six buttonholes placed, an inch and a half apart here with the buttonholes worked by hand in black silk twist. The. Buttons are just these little enameled, ones that I picked up in the garment district and these get stitched on quickly in their respective positions it should be noted that I completely accidentally. Positioned, the closure in the men's fashion, that is left hand side over right hand side as opposed to vice versa but I'm not at all mad about this and in fact I think it was very much a happy, accident also, whoever needed gender norms anyway now there's just one more thing that I want to do before I call this waistcoat complete and that is to put some little stays behind the two darts at the front this was quite common practice, for bodices and even blouses, to keep a nice rigidity, to the front even on top of the corset I do plan, to actually wear this waistcoat, without a corset, so I think having the stays in front will still help to give it that subtly 19th century shape even in an everyday dressing, situation, so I have for synthetic baleen, bones leftover, from my corset project that will be perfect to use for this and I'm just pinning them on inside, some casings made from the remaining leftover, deerstalker, ribbon I must confess that the stay casings, would probably, not have been made from Petersham like I'm using here they likely would have been done with a narrow twill tape but, I couldn't be bothered to go out and buy some and thought I'd just use up what I had left in my stash which is my feeble claim to historical, attitude, if not, necessarily. Historical, practice, the, casings are fell down on both sides to secure them into place as this is how it appears to have been done on the two nineteenth-century bodices and blouse in my own collection. And. Thus. The waistcoat is complete this project has thoroughly solidified. My obsession, with historical, tailoring, although it does require lots, and lots, and lots of, skill and practice in order to get just right and beautifully, clean and I haven't quite gotten there yet but this project was still so satisfying, to work on I love the precision and technique involved, in tailoring and I do think that the waistcoat came out nice enough to wear regularly, in everyday dress I definitely, plan to continue experimenting. With making some more waistcoats, and tailoring. In general because I think it's a skill that forces you to start looking at your sewing and your skills and crafts generally with a more detailed and strategic, eye which, I think can be wholly beneficial the, main thing I wish I'd done differently, for this project is I really, wish I had put in a watch pocket I didn't think to since I put a watch pocket into the matching skirt but I sort of severely, regret this decision I mean how amazing would this look with the happy addition of a little watch chain but I suppose this is an endeavor to be explored, for next time and with that I shall thank you for joining me on this process and I wish you luck should you now be off on your own historical. Tailoring adventures.

2019-06-24 12:56

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Comments:

I didn't mention this in the video, but I did not end up using the canvas layers on the facing pieces. Only that front piece was (partially) canvassed, but that's it.

Yes, there is such a thing as truth in history. You may not get at 100% at because that's the nature of life. But if you don't believe in objective truth, who cares about any sort of history, including sewing/costumes? Seriously, why not play video games?

I noticed that you didn’t use it. Good to know I wasn’t seeing things

That sounds like an amazing rabbit hole of research! Ive only ever seen the machine chain stitched ones, but it never occurred to me to wonder about it. Is it a similar stitch for all such produce bags?

@Tegan Sutherland Thanks. I wish that when doing internet search it was easier to come up with these kinds of resources. It usually takes many searches, then finding individuals like folks who already make historical or study historical garments, then sifting through or hoping they post excellent resources, like here. Lately I was trying to find historical construction of coffee bean bags...the stitches used, historically. I could not find a thing. I just faked it when sewing one together. The seams are done a bit different than a general blanket style stitch, from the info I could see, but I could not see how it was accomplished. It seems weird to most folks about why I would care, but...I wanted to know.

You did very well with the tailoring especially for a first try without good directions. I have done some but I had a pattern and good instructions and a book to help me decide on alternate applications. It's a classic jacket that's still good to wear over 20 years later.

@Samantha Solveson If you google "draft bodice sloper" you'll come up with decent websites. A lot of what you'll need to adjust are seam lines and any fit issues. If you are anything other than a B-cup, you'll need either a Small Bust Adjustment, or a Full Bust Adjustment. Plenty of historical books are available online that have full drafting systems. Check Project Gutenberg, Archive.org, or Cornell University's HEARTH library, if you want historical books. Good luck! (And remember, if you're going to be wearing a corset, draft based off of THOSE measurements!)

So I’m trying to make a 1860 ball gown without using a pattern. But I’m having trouble figuring out how to draft the top . Can you please refer to me some books or websites that might explain how to draft a dress better?

Beautiful job! Can't you add a cute little watch pocked to the finished project?

F* amazing

Stunning!

This is so amazing! I honestly can't get enough of your videos. The shots are beautiful and your style of narration and voice give me XIX century feel (in a very good way). Today I was watching this while hand sewing what before I started watching your videos I would have called a regency dress. Now, I am more aware of how many things about this garment will be historically inaccurate, so for some time now, I've been calling this a regency inspired dress. Anyways, as always, I can't wait for another video!

Your nails are amazing! Wait, I'm supposed to be looking at your fabric skills. ^_^

Lady Sherlock is coming to life ! Can't wait to see the final result !

My first ever tailoring project was a frock coat for my brother who was 6'4" with a 48"chest. I got a book from the library and draughted the pattern, which was also a first for me. I used black wool suiting and black brocade for the pocket flaps etc. Fitting required a lot of standing on a stool as I am only 5' I was very proud of the end result and the fact that when he wore it he got asked for the name of the tailor who made it. I made a waistcoat out of the black brocade, I had more problems getting it to fit than I had with the whole coat. The instructions sort of assumed you knew what you were doing. I love how yours turned out, it looks amazing on you. I do envey you having the Garment District. There is nothing like that where I live in Yorkshire in the UK

Hi, How beautiful it’s suits you so well and your patience is amazing. Bernadette my grannie had that sewing machine except foot treadle. From far far back in my memory, when her sewing machine sounded, “dry “ like your machine does in this video she used to de fluff and apply sewing machine oil. I remember doing it with her and your machine noise awakened a memory. This was probably in the late 1970 ‘s so I could ge entirely wrong. I regret when she died not having the room to keep her machine, it was a happy part of my childhood and teens and a great bonding episode. My granny and mother come to mind every time I sew and grandfather traveled miles from his chair , having been invalided from the Great War, with travel books from the library. I found myself on the sleeper train from Venice to Paris last year with my husband, but there was a third presence in that carriage of the memories of my grandfather and his travel books. Thank you for awakening some very happy memories this morning ❤️

So beautifoul

It's so awesome! I really love your works so I decided to start sewing myself. I want to do histroical sewing but I don't know where to start... I followed all your tutorials and searched for even more (couldn't find many...) but I still don't know what a good simple project to start would be. Is there anything you would recommend me? Because I don't have any erxperiences in sewing at all ^^' Much love from germany

Oh my, this is so beautiful, your work is an inspiration. I cannot wait to see the entire ensemble together. that blouse is stunning.

"who cares about gender norms anyway?" -bernadette 2019 ❤️❤️

My favourite video of you so far! I love historical tailoring, it’s so satisfying to watch and the result is so magical! Nothing like modern garments. Btw the padding makes everything so perfect!!

Oh man now i want to go and create a skirt suit type deal from historical patterns and make it work appropriate D: Seriously tho I am IN LOVE with this project

Ahhhhhh I want 478 of them in every wool in that amazing shop near you!!

I cant remember if she's gone over this before, but does anyone know where to get a hand crank sewing machine for like,,, super cheap

Another brilliant video. Thank you so much.

Nice fabric.

1: you look great in a waist coat 2:I want a victorian waist coat now 3: 2 is prolly not happening bc I never complete larger projects, am lazy as hecc, etc

Might make myself one some day

thank you for showing me haute couture techniques!

❣️Hello. Good day.

this was an amazing job!

Beautiful work! I love learning with you!

It's so exciting to see you tackle these Keystone patterns, they're so beautiful, albeit a little confusing to decipher. Thank you for showing us that we don't have to know absolutely everything perfectly in order to make a success of the patterns :) The way you work is truly inspiring! I recently used the first set of instructions in this same book to draft a bodice pattern exactly to my measurements, and I can confirm that the pattern still works even if one were to use your own measurements in place of the 'ideal' ones. The mock up then only required minor alterations to make the fit perfect. I'm so excited to keep using these patterns to create an entirely new wardrobe :D

Sooooo pretty!

That looks so nice and cute! Need to make same...

I’ve been waiting for this one. The waistcoat looks fabulous.

The waistcoat is lovely. I remember reading a time ago that they used the excess fabricr from the darts for bone casings for bodices, waistcoats, and the like. However, are you doing alright? The beginning of the video you seemed tired or frustrated. I hope you aren't overworking yourself, and know that, even though there is a technological disconnect, you're cared about.

I’ve been taking sewing lessons over the past month because of your work, and I can now understand (kinda) your videos!

You are so fabulous! Love this whole project!

I loved this waistcoat I particularly liked the idea and the end where you put boning in the front

I love it! Am now really inspired to finish my own (not historical, but hand-embroidered) waistcoat. Do you have a video of the gorgeous shirt?

OMG I feel as though I'm on the slippery slope to becoming historical tailoring trash •°>_

You speak like someone out of a 19th century novel, and it’s very very calming.

Brava! Really beautiful! I have one question...How would a pocket work on such a fitted garment? Wouldn’t the watch add an odd bulge? What am I missing?

Love the waistcoat! Super. Much curvier pattern than today’s square boxy pattern pieces. Bernadette, you showed a lot of focus and maturity in this video. It is in your voice. Fun journey as always ❤️❤️. The historical clothing truly compliments your figure. Sooo feminine.

This is so cool. It's not practical for my lifestyle, but a waistcoat and trousers in late-19th century style is DEFINITELY my aesthetic.

I absolutely love this! I can't wait to try something similar. Thank you!

Beautiful. May I suggest you watch Rory Duffy videos on tailoring? It's proven very helpful for me. It makes the old skills more understandable. ❤

this is breathtaking. Thank you so much Bernadette.

The waistcoast turned out beautifully.

This is absolutely gorgeous

That is such a beautiful waist coat!

Hi Bernadette I love your outfit so far. Where Di you get that beautiful blouse you were wearing with your newly finished vest. Would it be possible to make one? Angela

Dearest Bernadette: Witchcraft is an essential tool of sewing. It can be found on the list between Tailor's chalk and Wrist pincushion. See also: rosary beads, prayer shawl and slip proof prayer rug to put the sewing machine pedal on.

Oh my goodness! Fabulous!

That's beautiful! Also, screw gender norms. Lol

It looks wonderful and I can only hope that if I so chose to begin sewing and tailoring I would have such results. It looks marvelous

beautiful

This is just creepy! I made an Edwardian walking skirt to wear during our Women’s Voting Centennial events, using your skirt video for inspiration. I had some linen left, and searched high and low for information on making a waistcoat, and you post this! I may alter the design a bit to fit the era, but the “era” is wide ranging. The first activities surrounding women’s suffrage were pre-civil war, and lasted until it was passed in 1920. I’m going more for the Edwardian era, as the first Suffrage parade took place in NY in 1913. My guess, and from photos I’ve studied, most women didn’t have the latest straight “hobble” skirt look, and I refuse to try to march in parades and spend the next year in restrictive clothing. Thank you, thank you for posting this most timely video, and the link.

Looks great!

You...are inspiring is what you are! No. It’s not a tutorial video. But! Yes! It’s an inspiring and interesting video for those of us who don’t use patterns and/or make our own! So! Thank you Miss Bernadette

I'm curious, I thought the way one found their bust size easily was to just look to the size of the band that their bra is using...or am I grossly mistaken. Sorry but the comment about your bust not being that size got me to wondering about a project I was working on for myself...and now I'm doubting my choice lol

As someone who is also attempting new sewing things like making my own patterns, Seeing the little things like ‘what! How do I figure this out, document please explain’ really makes it relatable and also why I love your videos because they’re kinda vlog like but also not which is cool

I would seriously DIE for a waist coat like this, over years pf sifting through thrift stores and etsy nothing is ever the right style or tiny enough to to fit me, since seeing this it makes me feel less daunted to delve into a project like this...you have just turned a loyal viewer into another fumbling tailor

This turned out beautifully!!! I’m in awe!!

Amazing waistcoat!!!

I adore this waistcoat! It fits beautifully and looks wonderful.

Did you make your blouse? I love the whole outfit. Beautiful.

Love it! I love tailored vests, I haven't had one in years.

That waistcoat is GORGEOUS. You really did a great job with your first time doing historical tailoring!!

Your skills are amazing. Love watching your vlogs

The waistcoat looks beautiful! Well done!!

Beautiful

Yes!!! Finally!! I've been eagerly waiting for this video for so long!!

The waistcoat is so beautiful. I want to try and attempt this but I cannot draft anything for the life of me. Any chance anybody knows if it’s possible to grade this up on a computer to the exact measurements shown on the pattern?

Amazing I love all your videos. I wanna thank u for make me love more being a fashion designer. Love from Argentina.

You're so good at sewing holy hell

No more twist! The Tailor of Gloucester

Wonderful! Fantastic design and interpretation of the pattern instructions, muddled as they were. A watch pocket is always a welcomed addition.

any one else saddened by this only being 20 min? though I thoroughly understand the work in shooting and editing longer content I love the way she explained things.

i yelled "GOD IT'S GOOD" out loud irl

I adore it!

There is something to say to well tailored clothes on women or even men that just strike awe in me. I got tears in my eye by the sheer beauty of the process to end result. Phenomenal as always!

I'm not sure if you have this somewhere else, but where do you begin to buy articles of clothing that are either historically made or similar to? I would love to one day make most of my outfits and clothes like this here, but until then I do not have the time to put in all this effort. I also do not have full access to accurate materials to make such glorious pieces. I truly admire your work. Everything I have seen you make so far has been exactly what in my dreams I wish I could do every day. I am inspired by your work. I would love to know how to begin gaining pieces to add to my wardrobe and ways to dress as accurately as I can with little budget or experience in shopping for accurate pieces. Thank you so much for your work. Even if you are too busy to answer my questions, please at least know your work has given me hope that one day I will still be able to live my dreams to make and wear historically elegant clothing

BERNADETTE BANNER....

Bernadette, your channel is just so very different, and a young lady after my heart. I'm an old lady now, but years ago I was by the book and into the "correctness" of all things sewing. All things you make are nice, and would be so fun to wear. I have no place to wear them, but fun to make. I am all about the "drafting" and doing it my way. I went to UC Davis, the only remaining California university that still offers a degree in Fashion Design, and drafting techniquest put a new dimension on my things in sewing I can use

Very beautiful

Should have dipped the pipe in bubbles and blew- at the end

Beginning to understand why old fashioned tailoring required an apprenticeship. Understand why a bespoke suit costs the Earth.

I got so confused using his instructions when drafting my own waistcoat. The all over the place method made me wonder if he wrote this whilst partaking of opium lol.

That worked out very good. Thank you for giving us a look at how you did this. I have been looking at basting stitch machines by Singer recently and this helps with how they might have been used in both mass and individual Victorian and Edwardian production. Found out Singer has a button hole attachment that can make round eyelets today too, i never knew. The right threads make for a good button hole, and making a second work of it after the center is punched out of the eyelet.

Love the pipe at the end. Sherlock might have gone with a calabash, but the point was made.

Pretty cool. I love the speed of your sewing machine. Mine goes do fast.

Wow So Beautiful

Lets begin with a little random aside. Where do you get your blouses? Theyre so lovely and fit the era so well and I really want one. And to get to the compliment part of the comment it is an absolutely astounding level of precision you did end up coming to. My attempts at Keystone were far less stellar, though I assume I might have been doing something wrong with inches. As a European the whole notion of inches is daunting and confusing.

I SOOOO NEED to start tailoring!!! Thanks for this video. This is a gentle, calming introduction that makes me feel that I could actually give it a go........And not stuff it up too badly.

I seriously teared up at about 19:05. That is so freaking beautiful. All your hard work definitely paid off!

This is beautiful! !!!

That waistcoat is gorgeous

Like very old recipes. Improvise or else lol.

You're so clean with your finishes, and even the process of watching you sew is so graceful. This definitely encourages me to especially keep hand sewing. I love hand sewing, just hate that "time" becomes an enemy. I've been hand sewing a tan, camel linen kimono for on-and-off again, 6 month period (through a full time regular job) and I AM ALMOST DONE! I can't wait. That thing has literally resulted in me pricking myself too many times. I've been working on it while o watch your videos, too. Hehehe.

Stunning... I am amazed that this is your first journey into tailoring.

The waist coat is just fantastic. Yes, a watch pocket would have been the icing on top but regardless it's a beautiful piece of work.

It is simply stunning. I only wish I could draft patterns like you do!

I think your trails and errors make you human but, your outcomes propel you towards the divine. I find the waistcoat to be beautiful. Looking forward to the whole Lady Sherlock ensemble.

The fact that you managed to sneak in the red ribbon in this project made me smile

Amazing as always, Bernadette!

Such lovely work! I have a scissor saving tip for you instead of cutting stays with expensive scissors I like to use inexpensive nail clippers it gives you a rounded end and you can file any sharp bits so it shouldn't poke through your fabric later. I was gifted with an antique beaver muff. It's lining is gone, I was wondering what a historically accurate lining would consist of?

Excuse me interjecting, I may be able to answer this one. I can't tell you that this is The Correct Answer (TM), but in your position I would assume that it had had a silk lining. A fur would have been an expensive item, so it would have had a luxurious lining, and the fact that it's missing suggests that the lining might have shattered, rotted or otherwise deteriorated, and was removed - silk linings are often found shattered or deteriorating in Old Things. So if I was feeling fancy, I'd line it in a soft silk satin, or for the somewhat more affordable option, look for silk habotai lining. I hope that helps!

I would love to see the whole ensemble together! You're doing such a great job even though you are not completely sure of the exact steps to follow. What an adventure!

I LOVE your channel ❤️❤️ you are inspiring me to make the clothes that I have always loved. I also need to ware a Corset for medical reasons. I look weird Waring it with modern clothes

Ok so originally the way of the buttoning was related to energetic aspects of clothing so the right buttoning was to enhance and support the feminine energies, back in the day when ppl actually gave a shit about enhancing and living their lives to the fullest whatever bodies they were born in. They embraced it and did everything to make it function better, jewellery with the healing crystals runes to help heal or optimise and embroidered and well buttoned clothing. Now based on you saying that f the gender norms, don’t take it personally but I seriously doubt that there’s any witchy aspect in ur videos. Which is fine. Live and let live. And I acknowledge the subprime craftsmanship that goes into to these pieces, however this one in particular was quite a manly piece if I may say my opinion here. So no wonder it came out with the “wrong side buttoning”. I’m just a little bit pissed that basic practices of the arcane degraded into f the gender norms. That’s my point. And please don’t get offended I love your craft and you as person (as much as I know u from these vids) it’s just haaah tiring and annoying for a person who actually lives by these.

Why don’t you put in bound button holes on your tailored projects

This is absolutely FANTASTIC! My jaw literally dropped when I saw the final footage of you wearing it, and while I agree a watch pocket would've been the cherry on top, it's an exquisite garment nonetheless. I'm more and more excited to see the final Lady Sherlock look

I donno who else to ask this.. I recently found a vintage white dress and I can't place the era. How do you figure out what year/style a dress is? What kind of references do you use?

A brilliant project!

why do you sound so annoyed in this vid?

Such an admirer of your period clothing skills. ❤️

+bernadettebanner *I suspect that the Joint Photographic Experts Group Format 2 fiches of specific pages* from Charles Hecklinger, _The Keystone Jacket and Dress Cutter: A Treatise On Jackets, Dresses, and Other Garments for Women_ (New York, NY, USA: The Herald of Fashion Co., 1895), could be scaled in any of a number of photograph-processing softwares for reprint on the Hewlett-Packard® DesignJet® series of roll-paper inkjet printers.

Need this is my life.

What lovely work, Miss. Banner!! I'm sure that you will get immense pleasure from wearing such a beautiful garment! Enjoy!

You looked pretty unwell in your intro, I hope you are taking care of yourself. Hopefully it’s just from your travels, flying can make me feel under the weather.

I could listen to you talk all day. Your voice is so soothing.

I was away from the internet when this was posted and have been waiting so long to watch this. You do such beautiful work. It's absolutely mesmerizing.

BITCH YES!

A new video by the lovely Ms. Bernadette, must click faster than lightning to watch it! You do the most amazing and beautiful work and like everyone else, I can't wait to see the completed Lady Sherlock in all her glory.

“I have no clue what I’m doing “ Me: tries to make a simple skirt for a literal Barbie doll *fails*

It does suit you doesn't it. In fact, it's quite flattering. Lady Holmes will be a succes!

I love this! Is it sized to accomodate the corset and combinations underneath?

Beautiful!!

I am loving this outfit!!! It's so well crafted, so beautiful, and I can't wait to see the completed outfit together! Have you worn these two pieces out together yet?

Kinda cool right now because im watching your video while im also sewing

Absolutely stunning!

I do love your videos. Thank you!

My Gran was a tailor (not a seamstress, she made high quality bespoke menswear) in England. She taught me to trim back the canvas and hand stitch the canvas to the dart. In one of your other vjdeos, you mentioned Victorian telling stitch or hemming being done towards the body and that being opposite to how you were taught. My Gran taught me to be towards my body. Once you get used to it, it really is so much faster, especially when dealing with metres of hemming. I was also taught the pin-wriggle method for evening-out gathering and pinning your thread to apply tension as you work. It hadn't ever occurred to me that these were particularly historic techniques that she was passing down. I just adopted them as general sewing practices. She would have learned in the 1920s in Kent, England. I learned in the 1970s.

I was wondering, do you have any recommendations for someone interested in learning how to sew garments? Any particular resources online? I have a little basic experience using a sewing machine and handsewing, but I've mostly done embroidery like blackwork and whitework.

It came out wonderfully

Beautiful! The buttons are perfect and it looks great on you! Being frugal is always historically accurate.

You certainly look stunning in your skirt and waistcoat . I love this look and I admire your skills

If anyone is in need of a modern book to help them draft and adjust patterns like this one, I recommend "Patternmaking for Fashion Design" by Helen Joan Armstrong. I'm in school at the moment and it's our textbook.

@Bernadette Banner Hello I’ve been a viewer for quite some time and you’ve inspired me to make my own clothes once and awhile. I know it’s much to ask but please contact me anyway you can through YouTube and Instagram I would love some suggestions and advice from you.

TBH I find your videos more helpful than many tutorials because you show all the mistakes that I myself might make.

So I found your channel randomly a while ago and while I have sewn some mediocre things in my 3D design class, I am no where near your level of expertise. That being said, I am always in awe by the level of craftsmanship that goes into each of your projects and watching this waistcoat come together was absolutely mesmerizing! Keep up the amazing work!

Interestingly, the reason for men's garments having buttons on the right hand side is because men would more often dress themselves, so they would use their right hand, whereas women would more often be dressed by a servant/family member, so the buttons were put on the left hand side to make it easier for another right-handed person to close them!

This is just absurdly neat and tidy looking - the lines are so nice and crisp. I love this project! One thing that I'd like to ask though, is how did the Victorians handle the additional fabric left from the darts? Is it just pressed to one side? I would think there could be a good amount of bulk left behind in a bodice or waist when there is a large amount of fabric to be taken in, and could that potentially mess with the lines of the finished garment?

your work more than perfect dear , GOD bless you Enas from Egypt :*

This waistcoat is so beautiful

Oh, the wonders of a bespoke waistcoat. It will elevate any outfit. Thank you for sharing this entire process in one video. I am in awe of your tailoring skills. Cheers!

That's seriously gorgeous. I love the structure of waistcoats, and yours fits so well!

I like to sew and wish I had the time to do what you do!

I just love watching you sew!!

An amazing journey thus far.

I thoroughly enjoyed the background sounds you edited in. They made the video seem very cozy and serene :)

Why...if my eyes don't deceive me...is that lady sherlock??

Inspiring! Thank you, Bernadette!

Brilliant!

Very handsome indeed

I have a field trip suggestion for you... Would love to see you visit/tou Linton Tweeds! https://www.lintondirect.co.uk/

You look absolutely gorgeous in that outfit. I love your vids and thank you for sharing them with us.

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