A tribute to the best bike tech of the rim brake era.
this might be the very last really special Rim breake bike that I ever [Music] built I explain why in a second but today's video is going to be something special for all of you that really enjoy attention to detail engineering something really quite special this thing is the time skylon Rim break version and was the very last skylon in the factory now there's some really really special stuff on here if you haven't seen our videos on time or go and check them out I'm not going to labor the point this has also got some fantastic quirks of attention to detail that I'll talk you through as we go not to mention the weird quick set headset but first of all I want to show you the group set that's fit into this this is campago super record EPs and if you're a SRAM or Shimano user this is going to blow your mind I don't see many videos actually talking you through the weird nuances of the campag EPS system so I thought why not this is it's mad because this feels like a little bit retro now compared to where we are with current technology and yet it's still a really high-end High Performance Group set but the stuff on here which will just going to blow your mind first of all um this is the charger um which is massive that is a huge power brick of a charger and you really don't get much cable to connect that up to your bike either now talking of which this little connector here again completely proprietary to campagn but this is the little control unit it plugs into this goes in the end of your handlebar and this has to be lined up absolutely perfectly there's like a little notch in there and then you have to screw it into place very very little fiddly thing to do and then all of the cables connect they're all colorcoded so red to red and it's not like Shimano di2 we and plug anything into everything this all has to be absolutely perfectly set up so this uh control unit heads out to a little y splitter here that will then go to each of the STI the STI you have to remove this little b sort of cover here and you can just about see all the PCB Etc underneath there and connect that in and then this is going to slide back under here and lock all that into place and this cable will sit so that will sit in there and then that cable will run out like that with that cover on top what's really weird about these STI is I think this is strange about nearly every single electronic group set is you're completely unconstrained as to where you want to put the levers and yet campagnolo must have put so much effort into trying to recreate the feel of a mechanical shift so the click is so similar it's even got a noise to it um which I just found crazy to be honest I don't think any of the manufacturers have really got this right yet and the fact that this just replicates you know mechanical shifting I think this is where you know all electric group sets need to to improve at some point and get your head around the fact it's an electric group set you can put the button where the hell you like why isn't it just a little button there anyway um other than that they are the levers themselves are an absolute work of art carbon levers beautiful shape to them as well something that fits really nice in the hand they're probably one of the smallest levers um on the market they call them Ergo shifters and they've definitely got that ergonomic sort of look to them clunkiness of the mech is a bit weird you can actually literally see the little solenoids that make all this work so unlike this Min and the strw where all that's kind of contained this is very much all its inner workings are on display the little be limit screw is a little bit different on these they set it here on this little Cogan wheel system it looks very very industrial design and then sort of Italian flare put on top what's really Bonkers about the EPS system is that the battery um is all connected up with the wires and all these connect to the mechs halfway down and you have to turn the battery on and off with these magnets so there's like a little onoff switch here and you have to use these magnets and then sort of coax this little switch into position so you can turn it on or off now the idea of this is that you can't actually do it while it's in the frame because you can't unplug or plug any of these in while the battery is on so it's really important that you have this potentially the wraps around the outside of your frame it's not a very elegant system you have to sort of make it work you sort of have to give it a couple of attempts to try and get it to work and click and then and then it will turn off and then if I try and do this in the opposite direction can often just feel it click about there oh no that didn't work you see what I mean it's a it's a slightly fiddly job to try and get the onoff switch to actually work one eternity later hey it lives course I thought I'd broken it then anyway you get the idea it's definitely not um the most user friendly experience compared to the other brands but it is pretty robust these batteries these are about 450 quid to replace so luckily in my experience they do last considerably longer than those from Shimano and SRAM now that I've got it turned on let's turn it off again so I can disconnect everything and start doing some cable weaving [Music] most of our cable weaving completed just going to throw some appreciation out for a good set of instructions I mean look at that okay it's got every Lang in it but this is the thing when you have really good high quality bikes that they go to town on the instructions because they've really thought about how they want the cable routing to go and how they want everything to go together to get that best riding experience I mean these instructions for the time skylon even have instructions of how to fit campagnola EPS batteries and how you should re root all the cables I mean this is really really quite incredible the amount of detail they go into and all the part numbers are there as well so if you ever do need to order a part I mean this bike getting a little bit old now whether they still have some of those parts in stock since it's now switched hands to the Cardinal Cycling group I don't know but I do appreciate a really good set of instructions anyway um our next job is this uh stero tube and these actually Ed a very very special bearing that was specially made four time by NTN um and you can see it's got a thread bonded onto the stero tube here I'll show you how this works in a second but these bearings were specially made four time by NTN and I was initially really scared about this but apparently time have been have put an order in with NTN to order at least 10 more years of stock for this so only really the older skylines and if you were to buy one of the new I say new the limited edition ADH 21s which they re-releasing for a limited edition run uh it will come with this same quick set system and time have assured me that I think they've got enough stock of this to last them at least a decade um because these are such special bearings they're going to be really hard to get hold of there's not really another way of working this out so this is how it works so youve got the lower headset bear in here obviously this sits on like a little Crown race which is uh just installed there and then let's pop this in we have our upper headset bearing and this little compression knot that sits into that groove of those NTM bearings and then this is all tightened down by this special system it's got two big O-rings in there to keep everything really really waterproof so this slides down and you'll be wondering what this thing is that's sticking out of it I promise you that'll become clear in a second cuz you use that to tighten this down so this means that you set your headset preload separate from the steerer there we go there's no play but it's still free moving freely very smart now these were originally intended to use these these were the time RTM resin transfer molded stems which are like so light they don't make these anymore sadly we've got we've got a few left of these in various 110 120 130 mm lengths which is normally way too long so this is what it would have looked like back in the day would have been very very smart very slick looking setup um obviously the black would have come with the black and the white Etc lots of different colors were available of the skyl on back in its day but yeah sadly this is going to be way too long for this customer the nice thing is we don't have to cut the steerer yet because it's not dependent on that compression in fact we can just fit a stem and then time have this is a little tube on the inside so this means it goes in and when you clamp that clamping Force has got something to actually clamp against another reinforcing block on the inside so you're not going to just crush the carbon there's another big solid block of aluminium in there as well so you've got something to clamp against actually makes our job in the bike fitting thing really really easy cuz normally we have to take the cables out cut the steer Etc this time when we bike fit we should be able to keep everything intact cut the steer while it's on its bike and then just put the uh put the stem back on so right now we don't know exactly where the customer wants their height set at but we're going to fit these time um headset spaces even got a little o-ring on the inside just to startop B think rattling around I'm just going to fit 2 cm 1 cm and a 5 mm for now then we're using the data superzero RS one these are really really light but also I quite like the shape of them they sort of match the frame profile of of time phrase quite nicely and that's quite important to me and then for now we're just going to pop that on the top and then you'll see this compression bung sits in there so once that's all looking like it should do you know the actual finished effect would look much more like that which I think is a really really beautiful clean finish but before we can do that we really need to decide exactly where this customer wants everything cut again everything we're doing right now is just really loose assembly I'm not doing about torque or anything it's just like tiniest little nip uh just to get things Loosely done fitting the brakes on this the time scull actually comes with its own brake bolts now all of the campag noola record stuff has very very specific torque rating so we're not going to do anything uptight we'll go back over and check everything I mean you're tightening thing to the points of uh newton meters so so these are an aluminium bolt provided by time so just put a thin layer of grease on there as a little bit of corrosion resistance hopefully that will just help because the aluminium against the carbon really these high quality performance parts need regular maintenance to keep on top of any corrosion problems but a little bit of grease on there might at least help so the ball head Allen keys are quite good to get thing started but because there's quite a lot of locktite on there we just have to go slowly with half a turn at a time keeping that key engaged because it's an aluminium bolt you really want to take your time and not do anything to avoid damage in the head of the bolt next up we got some brake pads to fit because we are fitting some very special Wheels to this which going to be Carbon wheels so campagnola just have like this little clip system here so un like the old Shimano where there a bolt they just have like a little clip it clips into place there we go probably just heard that so these wheels that were fitting you probably guess what's coming but look at those these are the campagnolo Bora WT 60 so 60mm deep that classic campag noo three spoke design on there as well and these absolutely beautiful gloss black hubs these have to be some of the most beautiful Wheels ever made absolutely stunning they use a slightly larger gauge spoke nipple than most even around here where the nipple hole is how they've reinforced this whole area and even put like a little plastic insert to make sure any valve doesn't rattle around and cause any sort of noise they're tubeless um and don't even have tubeless tape on them so these are one of those awkward ones where if you do break a spoke you have to connect these up with a special tool and then run it around with the magnet to get the nipple back into place cuz you have to sort of thread the nipple through the spoke hole and then pull it into place not so bad on these deeper section ones you can normally pull it around so for this type of build such a classic there's only one possible Tire it had to be the Victoria Corsa Pro so the nice thing about this is we have a max pressure of 115 PSI now I've got to say Victoria you've got to sort your markings out because right here you've got max pressure tlr 95 and then over here you've got MAX Pressure tubeless 72 now that tlr kind of relates to the actual name of the tire just says tube tlr but then you come back here and you've got this tiny little pressure graph where it says with a tube in it MAX Pressure 115 tlr 95 hookless 72 so the markings are there but I'd argue that the markings over here are probably a little bit confusing time for the bottom bracket and we are fitting a BB infinite complete Overkill because normally this will help align your bearings a whole lot better but also make the bottom bracket stiffer neither of those two are issues with time bikes but why the hell not so with campag uh crank sets the bearings are actually attached to the cranks which I'll show you in a second so there's no bearings in here this is literally a really high Precision made tube essentially but when you buy from BB infinite um and you get a little receiving cup which is always quite useful made out of plastic so it doesn't damage a frame you get uh a piece of vibrati for installing it and also you get all the little installation bits and kits in here as well so you can use that retaining compound which is quite nice you also get the right size drift as well to help you drift it in so that's all you get this this goldade aluminium tube it just pushes into your bottom bracket area and then the two bearings so we've got two packets of here is 530 on outside of module for bottom bracket install so this is going to go on this surface and then we have 538 on outside of bearing so this is going to go on this bearing here when we come to install the crank [Music] now this noise you can hear which sounds absolutely horrific this is actually the anerobic curing process of the retaining compound nothing to do with cracking carbon promise now the important thing after installing like this is to go back and clean off any retaining compound that might have over spilt campag noo crank set install these are really cool these actually have like a do you know what I can never remember the engineering term for these someone will put it down in the comments in fact what's worth noting about campag noo is that on super record I think on record uh these are reverse thread and on normal one they're not and also on here it says 42260 Newton m which always makes me a little bit nervous so these fit together like that these are all like titanium axles absolute work of art you know the crank sets are all so beautifully well made so we have to got to get some of that retaining Compound on this surface here that's going to hold the bearing into that shell and then go in with our extra long 10 mil and a torque wrench so this time we're using vibrati 538 you got to be really careful not to get anything near the bearing seal because I promise you it will seize it up and the reason we're painting this on rather than just squirting it because we really need just a thin layer and a precise amount CU if you have too much when you squeeze it in it'll overflow and when it overflows that's when it's got a chance of you know literally gluing the bearing seals together so this really is just a very thin film now you only get a 15 minute cure time with these so you've got to work fairly quickly and bizarrely with campag noo is actually possible not to get these lined up perfectly one really important thing when you are installing bottom brackets like this take note of the Cure time once you got to this stage Walk Away Let The Cure time happen don't try and fit chains and move it around or go for a test ride leave it let everything cure so you know I said leave it at least 15 minutes to let the retaining compound cure well slight retraction on that and actually some additional learning going on here as well so just had a quick flick back at the instruction just to make sure I got everything absolutely right says 3our cure time and I was right it doesn't include The Little Wave Wash you'd normally get I scratching my head this is a bit weird because I could feel movement and on the instructions it does say to give this side a little tap because if the crank sets pushed that too far that way then the the crank sort of rubs on the bottom bracket that's really really weird but I follow the instructions gave it a little tap left it three hours but when I got home that night I just sent um a message to the BB infinite uh chat for for him guy like just out of Interest this is a bit weird you know is this supposed to happen feels a little bit uncomfortable and he was really helpful actually said yeah that's what it's meant to be the the the Vib tyte that we use is designed to lock everything in place trust the process go back in the morning give it 3 hours of cure time tell me if it works okay and fair play Gary thanks for your help but yeah it does that is not moving that just moved I think we need to call Gary okay after a chat with Gary and another overnights worth of curing interesting one obviously we took the cranks out after you saw that part in the video and actually it hadn't cured the retaining compound was still wet it's like tacky so it hadn't cured anyway went back to the instructions make absolutely made sure i' got absolutely everything right says clean it with a IPA or clean streak and was just yeah this is all absolutely perfect reached out to BB infinite again and they said look probably got contaminated I'm like yeah of course it's probably got contaminated it would have cured by now so you did suggest that IPA isn't potentially pure enough to clean it well enough so he recommends clean streak for various reasons it's a more aggressive cleaner um actually this is almost exactly the same um so we've used this this time I don't know whe that made a difference or not or whether just the first time i' done it I hadn't cleaned it well enough but now after overnight and I've been really pushing on this today that is now absolutely solid and SP spinning perfectly so I think we nailed it Lessons Learned there be absolutely even more meticulous than you think you need to be with cleaning when you're using retaining compound so time to start talking about cable routine and we want to make sure this is as neat and as Arrow as we possibly can so it needs a bit of thought because we're trying to hide as much as we possibly can in the cockpit area now the frame is being designed for Euro Brak so in the UK we're the wrong way around with our brakes which is a bit of a shame because the exit point for the rear brake cable is over here on the non- drive side which normally that would be set up that a brake cable could run in a nice cable run like this and we could turn our handlebars and your cable wouldn't rub the frame however here in the UK we tend to do this which creates this problem where your cables start to rub on the head tube which is really really unsightly the other thing is is that the exit point for the EPS cable is also over here now we need to make this look as neat as we Poss possibly can and prevent as much rubbing on the frame as we can now the way we're going to do that is by using uh some roll of heat shrink going to heat shrink these two together get the cable runs exactly right and then try and minimize any sort of contact with the frame as best we can still make sure that you can rotate the bars nice and freely so let's get fiddling now the really nice thing about these time bikes is that they pre root all this so I insert this whole length of outer Cable in look look at that isn't that great if only all bikes were made like that eh so the reason I'm doing this why is so that this sort of stays attached to it but also so you don't get a change in color as we go so everything looks nice and uniform and the reason I'm doing this now is because if I do it when it's already on and kinked you'll get all these little ridges here will turn into a fairly unsightly look so it's like this it's nice and straight we can shrink it right little Cable in reink cuz I was in like di2 mode and of course campagnolo y cables are different lengths so which means that the little um cable end charger has got to go on this side because if we have to connect purple to purple which is this side we're not going to have enough cable length to put it on this side so what this means is I'm going to have to sort of cut into this heat shrink of just nicely done and find an exit point for this to then run back and come on to this side too not going to be quite as clean as integrated as I'd really really hoped right been around the houses with all this I think this is what I've settled on sadly I don't think I'm going to be able to heat shrinkle this in and make it look really nice and integrated the cables just aren't long enough we still got to get this cable remember all the way underneath the bar tape and out of this hole here so that's as much as I have to play with so what I've done I've used these little Jaguar mini tube tops we've got one here holding this cable together um and then this just neatly hopefully just comes over to this side and joins up with the front brake cable here um I guess the nice thing about this is as it all tightens up and we have the brake cables all set I can at least move these around and tidde it up but I think that's probably about as neat as we can make it there's a little bit of like cable length just to sort out just make sure that's nice and symmetrical okay before we go too much further let's try and turn the system on and just sanity check that everything still works before we start hiding everything too too far away hey it works that does well thank God for [Music] that thing to remember when you're working with campag noo Rim brakes is that the brake cable goes quite a long way into the shifter goes all the way there so when you're cutting your hoses you've got to need to account for that a bit so if I just put my thumb there and bring that out you can see that goes a good inch inside the shifter so what we are going to do is cut this want to get that nice matching symmetrical curves for the right and left brake also with Campa remember you have slightly different shaped head heads on these as well when you buy campag stuff you don't realize but they only provide you with a front and a rear brake cable so they don't just give you two equal lengths again be super careful not to Kink the cable here you can wrap this very very tight especially with Rim break so the tighter you wrap this to the bar you'll get a slightly better braking performance because you won't just be moving cable every time it will just feel solid you can keep all this tightly wrapped to the bar now I also need to deal with this EPS cable so we're going to do neatly tuck that into there what I'm doing here is I'm trying to take extra care that when the rider on the drops you'll feel you'll have the dexterity to feel this cable under the BART is that they feel symmetrical and it's easy just to you know just to let these cables run wild but you know I'm trying to get them to match the single cable on this side with the two cables on this side so just trying to get these to come around and meet in the middle in the same place you don't really notice this what you'll notice is not doing it if that makes sense again nothing too tight at the moment this is just loose assembly work so here's our cable routing in the end I've tried to get these curves to sort of match and stay in the middle and this little EPS cable here to track neatly the rear brake transition over can't think of a way of making that any neater but it still gives me loads of movement around the bike that's the important thing that nothing gets too Disturbed that one little contact bit where it's rubbing the frame is protected as well so it would have been really nice to get that all heat shrinked but realities of the campagnola system didn't make that possible sadly um I have still accounted for the fact that I know this customer is probably going to want this push down so that I know if I lose 2 cm here these are going to become a little bit longer there's still scope for that without getting too involved but I'm not going to be cutting these cables or overtightening like calamp bolts or anything until that whole fit system is gone fact probably w't even bar tape until we're 100% confident with the fit right I think all we need to do now is set up the gears and give the customer a call and try and arrange a bike fitday quick word about torque wrenches we normally use the weer I think it's called the A1 or the X1 it's a little bit longer than this and I really really like it this is the new safety torque and the reason we got this is because it's got an onoff switch so you can do some sort of disassembly and assembly work with it as well without necessarily using it all the time um but it has actually got like a clutch on it so you physically cannot do the bolt up any tighter I'm not sure if I completely like it just yet because let me show you what happens when we do this bolt up it's kind of you've got to be a bit more careful because as you tighten you see it's got that little jolt to it so your hand kind of jumps I'm a bit nervous because I think if you're operating around things with like really sensitive paint and if you're not ready for that little jump you can potentially slip I don't know maybe it's a little practice thing but the nice thing is I literally I cannot and that sounds horrible but that bolt is not turning you literally cannot do your bolt up too tight I'll let you know how I get on with this at the moment the jewelry is still out [Music] when you're fitting an EPS chain all we need to check for is that it's at least a 3mm gap between the bottom of the deria and the chain to get the right chain link um and also campagnola used that pin and the pening tool but they do actually make a 12-speed quick clink in fact little hack if you really really have to in a fix you can use a SRAM one as well but we use the correct 12-speed campag noo one for this so the way I like to do these up is just watch this as it goes through so doesn't get caught and once it's at the top here just pull the brake on if you thought EPS was fun so far wait till you see how you actually adjust the EPS function here we go so you do everything first of all in the Big Ring here and hidden on here so you can see this little indentation just behind the thumb shifter here it's actually a little mode button so you're going to press and hold this until this little light here comes on there we go and that way we're in what we call Micro shift and then we can just change these controls until we get it centered onto the second sprocket so it's not making any noise once we've done that we can press that button again to come out of that mode and the green and then we should be able to shift we just got a little jump there so what you can actually do is set all these independently press that moded button again and importantly once we're up in this Top Gear we need to make sure that we set the B limit screw here so the Met can't accidentally overshift so once we're happy with they were in that gear can just make sure that this is wound down you're just looking for this screw to touch this little section here and that just gives us the reassurance no matter what happens the mech can't overshift and go into the spokes so now we should have super smooth gears all the way through the block so those really Eagle eyed mechanics amongst you right at the very start you might have noticed that the mech hanger was a little bit bent I noticed it too um and I was thinking I might just bend it back no no that's not the right thing to do I think this has probably just got damaged in shipping or you know this is want say an old bike but it's probably been in a warehouse for probably longer than it should be and it's probably taking a little knock or something and it's been any bike shop knows that's quite common place which is why we have tools to straighten it but this is such a special bike I wasn't having that so we have got a new Mech hanger this is a pilo this is a cnced machined version so these are a little bit more rigid than your standard C Cast aluminium A Little Bit Stronger I like these now a few of you are going to ask me in the comments about what we think of the new Sil titanium printed personally I always think these cnced aluminium ones are rigid enough I've never felt like I wanted a more rigid Mech hanger than these particular ones and I still like the fact that these are aluminium and they do bend a little bit see most of the time when people break a Mech hanger it's normally out of some in the back of a car incident and they put something on top of it or it's fallen over at a cafe it's quite rare that someone damages it racing or riding and B been able to bend it back or get yourself home is more important the titanium ones are kind of interesting make it rigid but he was a little bit hazy about you know how they break and how they fail and whether it's a complete break and fail that's it you've got nothing at least with aluminum ones you can um bend them back but anyway let's get this fitted and get the back wheel [Music] sorted you can see this one's taken a little bit of a knock that way and just close this Gap up a little bit and also to take in a little Gap that direction and just bent it [Music] slightly here it is the finished bike well as much as we can anyway we still need the customer to come for their final fit before we will do the bar taping but I I think we just really need to admire this beautiful blend of various types of raw carbon the campag Bora Wheels have got this lovely linear uh carbon weave to them the super record has got that lovely sort of molded carbon that matches the molded carbon of the time dropouts and the whole thing in just that raw lacquered finish it's definitely a Vibe and some of the highest end carbon components possible in cycling all showed off in its raw naked form like this is It's something to behold again I always talk about the word resolution but the closer you look at every single part of this bike the more beautiful it becomes you just see the craftmanship at every part of it which is going to be it's going to be a joy to own that's for sure it does feel a little bit weird uh I have to say this is relatively dated technology compared to what we're used to working on still have quick release axles the rim brakes bow and cable operated calipers you know mixed with the latest technology car Carbon Composites and electronic shifting but I think for what this customer wants it's really going to work for them the Simplicity that they demanded from the braking system and you can't debate the weight it's definitely a lightweight bike I'll put the weight up on the screen right now I can't help thinking that we have just built a very expensive and very beautiful bike but one that is at the end of its era I feel like the whole electronic shifting now going to wireless and all that faf with cables and batteries who moved away from that and this might be the last time we see a really top tier group set that comes with the ability to fit actual Rim brakes enough chat for me though let's take a moment just to enjoy this absolutely beautiful bike and remember if you like this sort of content please give it a thumbs up please consider subscribing to the channel so you're the first to become aware of all the new content from us and hopefully I'll see you on the next [Applause] one for
2024-04-14 13:38
